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CODE OF LABOUR PRACTICES FOR THE APPAREL INDUSTRY INCLUDING
SPORTSWEAR
February 1998
- Introduction
- Code of labour practices
- Implementation
- Independent Monitoring, Accreditation and Certification
I. Introduction
Statement of purpose
The Clean Clothes Campaign is dedicated to advancing the
interests of workers in the apparel and sportswear industry
and the concerns of consumers who purchase products made and
sold by this industry. The Campaign seeks an end to the oppression,
exploitation and abuse of workers in this industry, most of
who are women. The Campaign also seeks to provide consumers
with accurate information concerning the working conditions
under which the apparel and sports wear they purchase are
made. The Clean Clothes Campaign seeks to achieve its aims
through a variety of means including a code of labour practice
that would be adopted and implemented by companies, industry
associations and employer organisations. The code, which is
a concise statement of minimum standards with respect to labour
practices, is meant to be accompanied by a commitment by the
companies adopting it to take positive actions in applying
it. Companies are expected to insist on compliance with the
code by any of their contractors, subcontractors, suppliers
and licensees organising production that would fall under
the scope of the code.
Companies adopting the code will be expected to engage an independent
institution established for the purpose of monitoring compliance
with the code, in assisting companies in implementing the code
and in providing consumers with information concerning the labour
practices in the industry.
This code of labour practice sets forth minimum standards for
wages, working time and working conditions and provides for
observance of all of the core standards of the International
Labour Organisation including Conventions 29, 87, 98, 100, 105,
111 and 138. These are minimum standards that are meant to apply
throughout the industry and in all countries. The code is not
a trade protectionist measure. It is not meant to be used as
a means to close the markets of some countries at the expense
of workers in other countries.
The code is not meant to be a substitute for international
intergovernmental co-operation nor for international legislation.
Although the code does seek to afford workers protection from
oppression, abuse and exploitation where national laws are inadequate
or are not enforced, it does not seek to become a substitute
for national laws or the national labour inspectorate. The code
is not a substitute for secure and independent trade unions
nor should it be used as a substitute for collective bargaining.
Scope of application
The code is intended for retailers as well as manufacturers
and all companies positioned in between those in the apparel
and sportswear supply chain. It can also be used by industry
associations or employer organisations.
The code applies to all of the company's apparel and sportswear
products (including sportshoes). The code specifically applies
to the following general industrial classification of economic
activities within the European Community (NACE) classification
codes:
- 436 knitting industry
- 451 manufacture of mass-produced footwear
- 452 production of hand-made footwear
- 453 manufacture of ready-made clothing and accessories
- 454 bespoke tailoring, dressmaking and hatmaking
- 456 manufacture of furs and of fur goods
Through the code retailers and manufacturers declare their
responsibility for the working conditions under which the apparel,
sportswear and shoes they sell are produced. This responsibility
extends to all workers producing products for the company, regardless
of their status or relationship to the company and whether or
not they are employees of the company. The code would therefore
apply to home-based workers and to workers who are engaged either
informally or on a contracted basis.
The code applies to all of the companies' contractors, subcontractors,
suppliers and licensees world-wide. The terms 'contractor',
'subcontractor', 'supplier' mean any natural or legal person
who contracts with the company and is engaged in a manufacturing
process, including CMT (cut-make-and-trim), assembly and packaging,
which result in a finished product for the consumer. A licensee
means any natural or legal person who contracts with a company
to produce or distribute finished products using the name or
brand image of that company.
Observance of the code must be an enforceable and enforced
part of any agreement between the company and its contractors,
subcontractors, suppliers and licensees.
II. Code of labour practices
Introduction
The code provides a concise statement of minimum labour standards
together with a pledge by the company to observe these standards
and to require its contractors, subcontractors, suppliers and
licensees to observe these standards. The code is concise in
order to display it in workplaces and in order to avoid any
confusion between basic principles and the application of principles.
An independent institution, established to provide independent
monitoring of compliance with the code and to assist companies
in implementing the code, will provide an auditable check-list
of practices and conditions that are consistent with the standards
set forth in the code. This independent organisation will also
provide a means by which questions over the meaning of the code
can be resolved.
The preamble establishes three principles: First, the company
accepts responsibility for its workers, including workers involved
in contracting and subcontracting agreements. Second, the company
pledges to observe the core ILO labour standards and to ensure
that workers are provided with living wages and decent working
conditions. Third, the company pledges to make observance of
the code a condition of any agreements that it makes with contractors
and suppliers and to require them to extend this obligation
to their subcontractors.
The body of the code is based on the same core ILO conventions
including prohibitions against child labour, forced or bonded
labour, discrimination, freedom of association and the right
to collective bargaining. This is followed by the basic labour
conditions - wages, hours and working conditions (including
health and safety) and their formulation in the code, also derived
from ILO standards.
This section also addresses the issue of regular employment
relationships. Increasingly employers avoid the obligations
of the employment relationship by treating workers as "independent
contractors" when in fact their situation is the same as
that of regular employees. The ILO is in the process of developing
an international standard on this subject.
The closing section sets out the most important obligations
contractors, subcontractors, suppliers and licensees must undertake
in implementing the code and pledges the company to enforce
its code using a range of sanctions up to and including termination
of any agreements. The closing section pledges all employers
concerned to refrain from disciplinary action, dismissal or
otherwise discriminating against any worker for providing information
concerning observance of the code.
This part also states that the code establishes only minimum
standards that must not be used as a ceiling or to discourage
collective bargaining. The text of the code, when meant to be
posted where workers can see it, shall also include a means
by which workers can report failure to comply with the code
in a confidential manner.
Preamble
- (name of company) recognises its responsibilities to workers
for the conditions under which its products or services are
made and that these responsibilities extend to all workers
producing products or services for (name of company) whether
or not they are employees of (name of company).
- Any workers producing products or services manufactured,
sold or distributed by (name of company) must be provided
with living wages and decent working conditions, and the international
labour standards established by Conventions 29, 87, 98, 100,
105, 111 and 138 of the International Labour Organisation
must be observed.
- (name of company) will require its contractors, their sub-contractors,
suppliers and licensees to provide these conditions and observe
these standards when producing or distributing products or
components of products for (name of company). (name of company)
will, prior to placing orders with suppliers, engaging contractors
and subcontractors or granting licenses, assess whether the
provisions of this code can be met.
- For the purposes of this code the term 'contractor', 'subcontractor'
or 'supplier' shall mean any natural or legal person who contracts
with (name of company), either directly or indirectly via
another natural or legal person who contracts with (name of
company) and is engaged in a manufacturing process, including
CMT (cut-make-and-trim), assembly and packaging, which result
in a finished product for the consumer. The term 'licensee'
means any natural or legal person who as part of a contractual
arrangement with (name of company) uses for any purpose the
name of (name of company) or its recognised brand names or
images.
Content
- Employment is freely chosen.
There shall be no use of forced, including bonded or
prison, labour (ILO Conventions 29 and 105). Nor shall workers
be required to lodge "deposits" or their identity
papers with their employer.
- There is no discrimination in employment.
Equality of opportunity and treatment regardless of race,
colour, sex, religion, political opinion, nationality, social
origin or other distinguishing characteristic shall be provided
(ILO conventions 100 and 111).
- Child labour is not used.
There shall be no use of child labour. Only workers above
the age of 15 years or above the compulsory school-leaving
age shall be engaged (ILO Convention 138). Adequate transitional
economic assistance and appropriate educational opportunities
shall be provided to any replaced child workers.
- Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining
are respected.
The right of all workers to form and join trade unions
and to bargain collectively shall be recognised (ILO Conventions
87 and 98). Workers' representatives shall not be the subject
of discrimination and shall have access to all workplaces
necessary to enable them to carry out their representation
functions (ILO Convention 135 and Recommendation 143). Employers
shall adopt a positive approach towards the activities of
trade unions and an open attitude towards their organisational
activities.
- Living wages are paid.
Wages and benefits paid for a standard working week shall
meet at least legal or industry minimum standards and always
be sufficient to meet basic needs of workers and their families
and to provide some discretionary income.
Deductions from wages for disciplinary measures shall not
be permitted nor shall any deductions from wages not provided
for by national law be permitted without the expressed permission
of the worker concerned. All workers shall be provided with
written and understandable information about the conditions
in respect of wages before they enter employment and of the
particulars of their wages for the pay period concerned each
time that they are paid.
- Hours of work are not excessive.
Hours of work shall comply with applicable laws and industry
standards. In any event, workers shall not on a regular basis
be required to work in excess of 48 hours per week and shall
be provided with at least one day off for every 7 day period.
Overtime shall be voluntary, shall not exceed 12 hours per
week, shall not be demanded on a regular basis and shall always
be compensated at a premium rate.
- Working conditions are decent.
A safe and hygienic working environment shall be provided,
and best occupational health and safety practice shall be
promoted, bearing in mind the prevailing knowledge of the
industry and of any specific hazards. Physical abuse, threats
of physical abuse, unusual punishments or discipline, sexual
and other harassment, and intimidation by the employer is
strictly prohibited.
- The employment relationship is established.
Obligations to employees under labour or social security
laws and regulations arising from the regular employment relationship
shall not be avoided through the use of labour-only contracting
arrangements, or through apprenticeship schemes where there
is no real intent to impart skills or provide regular employment.
Younger workers shall be given the opportunity to participate
in education and training programmes.
Closing section
Contractors, subcontractors, suppliers and licensees shall
undertake to support and co-operate in the implementation and
monitoring of this code by:
- providing (name of company) with relevant information concerning
their operations;
- permitting inspection at any time of their workplaces and
operations by approved inspectors;
- A. maintaining records of the name, age, hours worked
and wages paid for each worker and making these available
to approved inspectors on request;
- A. informing, verbally and in writing, the workers
concerned of the provisions of this code; and,
- A. refraining from disciplinary action, dismissal or
otherwise discriminating against any worker for providing
information concerning observance of this code.
Contractors, subcontractors, suppliers and licensees found
to be in breach of one or more terms of this Code of Labour
Practices may lose the right to produce or organise production
of goods for (name of company).
Questions as to the interpretation of the meaning of the provisions
of this code shall be resolved according to the procedure set
forth by an independent institution established for this purpose.
The provisions of this code constitute only minimum standards
and conditions for the purpose of preventing exploitation. (name
of company) does not intend, will not use, and will not allow
any contractor, subcontractor, supplier or licensee to use these
minimum standards and conditions as maximum standards or as
the only conditions permitted by (name of company) or to serve
as the basis for any claim as to what standards or conditions
of employment should be provided.
Specific industry standards
Specific industry standards, especially with respect to
health and safety (including access to medical services) and
workers' accomodation may be incorporated into the code or attached
separately and referenced in the code under section # 7 "working
conditions are decent". These standards may be formally
recognised standards or established best practice.
III. Implementation
Introduction
Implementation refers to the whole range of activities that
could be taken by a company to give effect to the Code of Labour
Practices. In the past some companies have adopted codes as
a public relations response to reports of exploitation but have
failed to implement them. Companies adopting the Code of Labour
Practices for the apparel and sportswear industry will be expected
to agree to certain minimum conditions with respect to implementing
the code. One of the most important ways in which a code can
be implemented is for it to become an enforceable and enforced
part of agreements with contractors, subcontractors suppliers
and licensees.
Implementation and monitoring are often confused. Monitoring,
which means to watch or check that the terms of the code are
being respected is one aspect of implementing a code. It is
expected that companies adopting the code will in their relationship
with their contractors, sub-contractors, suppliers and licensees
monitor their compliance with the code.
Companies adopting the code are also expected to co-operate
and support a system of independent monitoring of compliance
with the code. This section concerns the general obligations
of the company to implement the code. The obligations of the
company with respect to independent monitoring are considered
in Part IV.
obligations of the company to implement the code:
- The company agrees to take positive actions to implement
the code, to incorporate the code into all of its operations
and to make the code an integral part of its overall philosophy
and general policy.
- The company will assign responsibility for all matters
pertaining to the code within its organisation and inform
the independent institution and other relevant bodies where
this responsibility is assigned.
- The Board of Directors (or other governing body) of the
company shall periodically review the operation of the code,
including the reports of internal and external monitoring.
- The company accepts responsibility for observing the code
with respect to all employees and workers that it supervises
and agrees to:-
- assign responsibility for implementing this code at
each place that it owns or controls;
- ensure that all workers are aware of the contents of
the code by clearly displaying an authorised text of the
code at all workplaces and by orally informing these employees
in a language understood by them of the provisions of
the code;
- refrain from disciplining, dismissing or otherwise discriminating
against any employee for providing information concerning
observance of this code.
- The company will make observance of the code a condition
of all agreements that it enters into with contractors, suppliers
and licensees. These agreements will obligate these contractors,
suppliers and licensees to require observance of the code
in all agreements that they make with their respective subcontractors
and suppliers in fulfilling their agreement with the company.
Such agreements shall also oblige these contractors, subcontractors,
suppliers and licensees to undertake the same obligations
to implement the code as found in the preceding point.
Obligations of the company to enforce the code
Observance of the code by contractors, sub-contractors and
suppliers must be an enforceable and enforced condition of agreement
with the company.
In order to achieve this:
- The company will ensure that all agreements it enters into
concerning the production of apparel and sportswear allow
for the termination of the agreement for failure to observe
the code by any contractors, sub-contractors and suppliers.
- The company shall authorise a procedure with fixed time
limits to rectify situations where its code is not being fully
observed by a contractor, sub-contractor or supplier. The
agreement by the contractor, sub-contractor or supplier to
abide by this procedure would enable the continuation of the
agreement with the company. The company shall require contractors
or suppliers to institute similar procedures with respect
to their contractors, sub-contractors or suppliers.
- Such procedures shall be authorised only where:
- there is a reasonable expectation that the situation
will be corrected and that the code will be observed in
the future;
- the period specified for correcting the situation is
reasonable;
- recognisable and unmistakable violations of the code
are ceased immediately;
- such procedures shall not be authorised more than once
for the same contractor, sub-contractor or supplier for
the same or similar failure to comply with the code; and
- such procedures are consistent with any recommendations
or procedures set forth by the independent institution
established to assist in implementing this code.
- With respect to child labour, such procedures shall require
that there be no further engagement of children and that temporary
measures to assist child workers such as the reduction in
working time, the provision of educational opportunities and
transitional economic support be instituted. In the end, child
workers must be replaced by adults and, where possible, from
the same family. Procedures should also include measures to
assist the children concerned through provision of educational
opportunities and transitional economic support.
- Contractors, sub-contractors and suppliers must, as part
of their agreement with the company, agree to terminate any
contract or agreement for the supply or production of goods
by any contractor, sub-contractor or supplier that they engage
not fully observing the code, or they must seek and receive
approval from the company to institute a procedure with fixed
time limits to rectify situations where the code is not being
fully observed.
- Where there is repeated failure to observe or to ensure
observance of the code by a particular contractor, sub-contractor,
supplier or licensee, the agreement should be terminated.
Guidelines or procedures for determining when it is necessary
to terminate a contract for failure to observe the code shall
be set forth by an independent institution established for
this purpose.
In situations where it is not clear whether a particular practice
constitutes a violation of the code, relevant international
labour standards of the International Labour Organisation (ILO)
and any recommendations provided by the independent institution
established to assist companies in implementing this code shall
be sought for guidance.
IV. Independent Monitoring, Accreditation and Certification
Introduction
When a sufficient number of companies, industry associations
or employers' organisations have adopted the code of labour
practice for the apparel and sportswear industry, then they,
in conjunction with appropriate trade union organisations and
NGOs, shall establish jointly an independent institution, referred
to in this document as "the Foundation".
The purpose of the Foundation shall be to:
- conduct, directly or indirectly through other organisations,
the independent monitoring of compliance with the code;
- assist companies in implementing the code; and
- provide a means to inform consumers about observance of
the code and more generally about labour conditions in the
industry.
To these ends the Foundation shall:
- establish standards for the independent monitoring and
for the accreditation of independent monitors;
- train, or to arrange for the training, of independent monitors;
- prepare an auditable checklist of labour practices to be
used in monitoring the code;
- conduct or otherwise cause to be conducted independent
monitoring of compliance by specific companies with the code
of labour practice;
- receive reports of such independent monitoring and make
effective recommendations based on these reports to the companies
concerned;
- investigate any substantiated reports concerning compliance
by participating companies and make effective recommendations
based on the findings of such investigations;
- prepare and publish guidelines for participating companies
on the implementation of the code;
- provide other technical assistance to companies in implementing
the code, including the training of company personnel;
- prepare and publish the authorised version of code in various
languages and in sufficient quantities as required by participating
companies;
- establish a means to interpret the provisions of the code,
provided that this means is based on the recognised jurisprudence
of the International Labour Organisation;
- provide a means by which workers and any others can report
on a confidential basis observance of the code;
- establish, based on independent monitoring, a system of
certification concerning labour practices which can be used
by consumers;
- collect information from any source on working conditions
in the apparel and sportswear industry and make this information
available to consumers;
- promote the code of labour practice and encourage all companies
operating in the industry to adopt it; and
- establish a mechanism that can make effective recommendations
with respect to any disputes arising out of the implementation
or the certification process.
The Foundation shall be governed by a board consisting of equal
representatives of appropriate trade union organisations and
NGOs on one hand and of appropriate representatives of retailers
and manufactures on the other hand. The Foundation shall be
financed by contributions from participating organisations and
by payments for services from contracting companies.
The principal means by which the Foundation shall conduct
its work will be based on contracts with specific companies
to independently monitor and certify their compliance with the
code and by contracts with individuals and organisations to
conduct monitoring.
It is understood that the standards for independent monitoring
established by the Foundation shall be based on the best practice
of the two existing professions that monitor labour practices
- the labour inspectorate and the contract-enforcement practices
of trade unions. It is also understood that these standards
shall include ethical practices for monitors, including respect
for any confidential commercial information.
It is also understood that any individuals engaged to conduct
monitoring shall receive training for this purpose.
Relation between the company and the Foundation
Companies adopting the code of labour practice for the apparel
and sportswear industry shall enter into an agreement with the
Foundation. This agreement shall provide for the following:
- the time-frame in which the production in the different
facilities should comply with all the standards in the code;
- the information the company has to give to the Monitoring
Foundation;
- the payments the company should make to the Monitoring Foundation;
- the procedures for the actual monitoring and the obligations
of the different parties; and
- the use of the Foundation contract by the company in its
public relations.
With respect to (b) the company assumes the following obligations:
- to maintain full and up-to-date information on all contractors,
sub-contractors, suppliers and licensees obliged to observe
this code, including the nature and location of all workplaces,
and to provide this information to the Foundation or its accredited
monitors in a timely manner upon request.
- to require contractors, sub-contractors, suppliers and
licensees to maintain records of the names, ages, hours worked,
and wages paid for each worker, and make these records available
for inspection by accredited monitors, and to allow the Foundation
or its accredited monitors to conduct confidential interviews
with workers.
- to ensure that the code is clearly displayed in all places
where apparel and sportswear are produced and/or distributed
by or under agreement with or for the company and provide
authorised texts of the code to contractors and suppliers
for their use, and the use by any contractors, sub-contractors
and suppliers obliged to observe this code. In all cases the
text of the code so displayed shall be in languages so that
the workers concerned are able to understand it. The text
of the code shall be provided to each worker covered by its
provisions and all workers so covered shall be orally informed
in a language that they can understand of the provisions of
the code.
- the code so displayed must provide information to assist
workers in reporting violations of the code to the Foundation
or its agents taking into account the difficulties that workers
will face in doing this and the need for confidentiality in
order to protect workers.
- to allow for the necessary access to independent monitors
and provide them with any and all relevant information upon
demand.
- to ensure and clearly demonstrate that the code is being
observed by all parties obliged to observe the code, the company
must allow the Foundation and its agents access to all information
pertaining to the implementation of the code, and ensure that
its contractors, sub-contractors and suppliers give similar
access to the Foundation and its agents.
Monitoring: basic principles
- monitoring must be by the actual observance of working conditions
through unannounced inspection visits ("spot checks")
to all workplaces covered by the code;
- the frequency of inspections must be established;
- accredited monitors must be permitted to interview workers
on a confidential basis;
- in addition to regular or routine inspections, inspections
shall be undertaken at specific locations following substantiated
complaints, where there is sufficient reason to believe that
the code is not being observed;
- inspections shall be conducted in a way which does not
cause undue disruption to the performance of work in the premises
being inspected;
- written reports shall be provided by accredited monitors
to all parties and to the participating company concerned
following each visit.
The Foundation may seek other sources of information concerning
compliance with the code including consulting appropriate trade
union organisations, human rights organisations, religious and
other similar institutions in order to obtain additional information
on a certain company or in order to investigate a certain complaint.
If violations of the code are found, the company must agree
to accept the recommendation of the Foundation. This recommendation
shall in the first instance be aimed at improving the existing
situation. Where such improvement is not possible or satisfactory,
then the Foundation can oblige companies to re-negotiate, terminate
or refuse to renew their contracts with certain contractors,
subcontractors and/or suppliers.
Where companies fail to observe their agreement with the Foundation
it is understood that the Foundation may release any relevant
information to the public and may terminate the contract between
the company and the Foundation.
The independent monitoring process shall form the basis for
any public claims by the Foundation or by participating companies
as to the operation of the code or concerning the actual labour
practices covered by the code.
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