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Corporate Codes of Conduct: Can They Help Cambodian Workers?

by Phil Robertson
July 28-29, 1998

Upon arrival & registration, each participant should complete a brief survey - five questions on unions and experience.

9:00-9:15 a.m.

  • Who Am I? Introduction of Trainer.
  • The Ground Rules for the Training; Schedule; Expectations
  • Introductions & election of a timekeeper
  • Objectives & Expected Results of the Training
    1. Create understanding about what CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCTs Are: how they can help & what their limitations are.
    2. Create understanding of the structure of the international garment industry
    3. Develop practical strategies to help Cambodian garment workers get respect for their rights through forming unions, working with external groups, and "two ends" tactics.

9:15-10 a.m.

  • Questions & small group work - Where Do These Garments Go? (15 minutes)
    1. What do you make at the factory?
    2. Where do you think the product you make goes? Who uses it?
    3. How do you think people learn about what you make?
    4. At what kind of store or market do you think the product you make is sold? What is that store or market like?
    5. What makes them decide to buy your product instead of another, similar product?
    6. What do you think those people buying your product would say if you could tell them about the way you are treated by your employer?
    7. How much power do you think the company that buys your product has in your factory?
  • Presentation of results of small group work by each group. (15 minutes)
  • PSR use of Vanity Fair advertisement photos for garments & photos of mall shopping centers. Answer the WIFM question for employers -- Why do they want to do this? Primarily because consumers don't want to buy goods made in exploitative conditions (money) and retail companies are worried about looking bad (loss of face). They spend hundreds of millions of dollars to make themselves look good through advertisements, and the last thing they want to do is to look bad. And some are simply responding to public pressure campaigns.

10:00-10:15 COFFEE BREAK

10:15-11:00 a.m.

Lecture: What is a Corporate Code of Conduct? What Do They Contain?

  • A CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT is a written statement of policy adopted voluntarily by a company (usually in US or Europe) which states that the contractors and sub-contractors with whom they do business must meet certain legal and ethical standards. (Distribute list of Codes of Conduct by Industry or Association and following codes of conduct: GAP, Nike, Wal-Mart Stores, Sara Lee Knit Products, Phillips-Van Heusen).
  • A core principle to remember throughout is that CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT are voluntary, i.e. it was the company that thought them up, created them, and determines how the CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT will (or will not) be implemented. The Code belongs to the company that adopted it…not to the workers, or the contractors. An "agreement" or a "pledge" is the best terminology. Draw picture of the dog (company), the chickens in the chicken coop (workers) and the farmer with a stick (overseas advocates & unions) - the chickens need to be organized and need to be talking to the farmer, who will hit the dog as necessary.
  • The other core principle to remember is that no CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT is the same as another, just like no company is the exact same as any other. This goes for the terms of CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT and also the way a company will deal with a complaint that their CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT is being violated.
  • Also, watch the wording. English is a tricky language, there are many variations of meaning. There is a difference between "must" and "shall" vs. "should" and "encourages". Watch the slippery words like "reasonable" - Wal-Mart's ideas of "reasonable employee work hours" is probably a good different from your idea. Wal-Mart "favors" contractors who work people less than 60 hours.
  • However, with that said most Codes will include some or all of these - you just have to do the research.
    1. Compliance with all local laws on wages, overtime, and benefits. Usually the word "prevailing industry standards" or local laws are used. This means that any time you can uncover forced overtime, or failure to provide holiday leave as provided by the Cambodian Labor Law (hold the law up), you've probably got a violation of a CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT. This also means factory owners need to pay overtime wages following the law. Most CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT will say OT is okay, but will "encourage" that it not be over 60 hours a week and that at least one day in seven should be a holiday.
    2. Non-discrimination in hiring and firing. So if you can prove that the factory has a policy of treating women worse than men, or paying them less for the exact same job as a matter of policy, you may get them here.
    3. No use of child labor. "Child labor" usually means the legal age, but not less than 14 years of old. In some cases, it's 15. Another formulation is not younger than the compulsory age to be in school.
    4. No use of forced labor, physical coercion, or physical punishment .
    5. Freedom of association and right to organize. This is less frequent, but when you find it, it can be used to generate international pressure to stop the factory owner from trying to destroy an independent union. But also look at SKLP "union-free environment". Compare that against Reebok FOA.
    6. Occupational safety and health . Usually there is some commitment that factories should provide a "safe working environment" and/or provide "safety equipment" exists, but these are vague. Environmental laws also folded in here.
  • Analysis of CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT: Usually we find the "musts" appear when talking about child labor, forced labor, non-discrimination, and complying with local laws. The "should" and "encourages" comes everywhere else. Many times, there is nothing on FOA and organizing. Let's go through the Wal-Mart code. Now compare this with the Limited.

11:15-12:00

Lecture: What's At Stake for Garment Retailers? What Does Consumer Pressure Mean? (45 minutes)

  • US imports 28% of all garments produced in the world in 1994.
  • Five largest US retailers account for 48% of total retail sales of garments in 1993.
  • In 1995, the U.S. imported $34,649 million dollars - and 60.6% was from Asia.
  • Draw a diagram - the procurement network and how it works - plug the workers' answers into that diagram. Participatory exercise to use the answers of the participants. Use diagram from Apparel Industry report.
    1. Manufacturers - contractors & subcontractors - make the clothing, usually with someone else's cloth & design
    2. Merchandisers - middlemen, usually, who design and market clothing either themselves or to larger stores
    3. Retailers - the end of the line - distribute garments and sell them to the final customer
    4. Buying Agent - the people you see in the factory. Locate production, qualify and inspect. Negotiate contracts with factory. The visiting barang - how many have seen this person in your factory?
  • Examples of Consumer Pressure at Work
    1. "No Sweat Campaign" - the Thai women in the U.S. sweatshop, and the creation of the White House Apparel Industry Partnership. Use Clinton quote
    2. The Holiday Season of Conscience & the National Labor Committee - millions of petitions sent to President Clinton, handing in cards when shopping demanding "no sweatshops". Show Holiday Season of Conscience stickers.
    3. Burma and selective purchasing pressures - pushing the corporations out of a state, out of 20 cities, including NYC. Mitsubishi example of the people mover contract at the SF airport.
  • Lessons
    1. Corporations are global, we have to think that way too. (esp. when local government is not interested in enforcing laws, or laws are inadequate)
    2. Corporations only really listen when you hit them where they think: their wallets.
    3. It all starts with you - without information and organized workers organizations to stand up, on the front line, the rest of the links don't function. CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT are bets that you all won't get organized to defend yourselves, and you won't learn what corporations are saying to consumers in the USA & Europe. They are a challenge to you.
    4. Help is closer than you think. Email & the net have brought this information into your hands - although it is in English. Telestra's Big Pond is exactly right…we're all swimming in the same lake now. Use example of Apparel DOL report.

LUNCH

1:30-2:00 p.m.

Small Group Work: How Could a CORPORATE CODE OF CONDUCT be Implemented & Enforced in Cambodia?

Questions for the Groups:

  1. How could information be gathered on what is taking place in the factory?
  2. How can we find out which CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT apply to what factory?
  3. How should workers be educated about their rights under the labor law and the CORPORATE CODE OF CONDUCT?
  4. What role should workers and NGOs play in monitoring factory conduct?
  5. What role should unions play in implementing and monitoring CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT?
  6. How much can we trust local factory owners and overseas companies to monitor and enforce the CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT?
  7. How can a CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT change the power relationship between a factory owner and workers in Cambodia?

2:00-2:30 Presentation of small group findings.

2:30-2:45 COFFE BREAK

2:45-3:15

Lecture: Key Issues for a CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT- Transparency, Monitoring & Enforcement (TME)

(1) Issue of Transparency of the code - do the workers actually know about it? What about the sub-contractors, buying agents, etc.

a. Was there any training for sub-contractor or factory staff so that they know that they have to comply with the CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT?
b. Was the code posted in the local language in a public place for all workers to see?
c. Were there any meetings with workers to discuss the code or educate them about it? Were the shop stewards told about it? Was the union told about it?
d. Are workers informed or given information on company policy/regulations so that they can compare this against the CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT?

(2) Monitoring is either contractual, active, or combination of both

a. Who does the active monitoring? Who pays them, who do they report to? "He who pays the piper calls the tune."

  • internal (i.e. company auditors)
  • external (i.e. buying agents or suppliers)
  • outside audits (i.e. professional auditing firms hired by company)
  • NGO/social/labor monitoring. Labor Unions.

b. Is monitoring for the Code itself, or is it part of the normal quality control and delivery coordination (i.e. plays second fiddle to business operations)?
c. Checking documents at contractors or subcontractors?
d. Interview workers in a way that guarantees confidentiality and prevents reprisals?
e. Can information be provided to the monitors by workers or the union in a way that the factory owner doesn't know who told? Protection of whistle-blowers?

(3) Enforcement - what does the retailer do when they learn of a violation of the code?

a. Closer the relationship between manufacturer and importer, the more influence the importer has on labor conditions. So part of the challenge for worker is to figure out what the relationship is between your employer and purchaser of the garments.
b. Who is in charge of enforcement? Public relations department, or someone else?
c. What sort of participation can unions and workers have in determining what is "reasonable" and having impact on the definitions. Because as we have seen, English is a tricky language.

(4) Types of Code documents

a. Special documents on Code, to be distributed or posted
b. Circulated letters to everybody about standards expected
c. Compliance certificates - must be signed by contractors and sent back to company with CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT.
d. Contractual condition in purchase orders or letter of credit - this is best.

3:15-3:30 Compare small group findings against this lecture.

3:30-4:15 Lecture: Unions and CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT.

(1) Codes of Conduct don't work unless there is a strong union to help enforce them, because ultimately it is the workers who will be most likely to ensure that the standards are complied with.
(2) Distribute & explain the Wal-Mart chart.

  • Remember, these CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT are pledges by companies that are far away, off in America or Europe. It is very easy for such a company to send someone to come take a look in Cambodia and say that they "checked it out". Use Sam Han example and Montgomery Ward. Relying on government enforcement or employer compliance is not enough by itself. The dog & the chickens.
  • Also, as we have seen from the CPP and the election for the NGO representatives to the National Election Commission, it is very possible for people with money & power to "buy" a NGO to say what they want. PACT & Indonesia.
  • Also, who is going to protect the worker(s) after they report the abuses of the factory owner to the representative of the CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT company. That guy will report and go home to wherever they came from: Bangkok, or Hong Kong or the US. But the union stays in Phnom Penh and provides protection for the workers who blow the whistle - "in unity there is strength". The union can negotiate a real confidentiality agreement with the CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT auditor.

    (3) A CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT is not an alternative to collective bargaining and a CORPORATE CODES OF CONDUCT is not a substitute for a union. Ideally, a Code is a complement to a union collective bargaining agreement, it provides a floor for standards. For instance, the CORPORATE CODE OF CONDUCT says all factories must comply with the law on wages - which means paying $40 a month to a garment factory worker. But does anyone really think that $40 a month is enough money to raise a family in Phnom Penh and send children to school? Unions can bargain a living wage, make sure that OT is really voluntarily, and improve working conditions.

    (4) Standards in Codes of Conduct do not cover all the legitimate concerns of workers. For instance, most do not say anything about freedom of association and right to organize. International labor standards like ILO conventions 87 and 98 say Cambodian workers have the right to form unions and bargain with employers. Just relying on a CORPORATE CODE OF CONDUCT to protect your rights means that some of the most important labor rights are left out.

    (5) But if a CORPORATE CODE OF CONDUCT does have right to organize, this can provide space for a union to form because if an employer tries to break it, there is another source of power in the workplace besides the Cambodian MOL.

    (6) A Code that is not seriously implemented is worse than no Code at all. Because then it is like a "paper union". It creates the picture, that's all.

    (7) Sometimes the only way to implement is a union. The story of Kathie Lee Gifford, Honduras and now PRC. Show Wal-Mart labels & explain China case.

4:15-4:30 Questions on Topics of The Day & What's Up Tomorrow?

  • How to find where the garment goes - find the retailer
  • What parts of the Cambodian labor law need to be enforced
  • International allies and global communication - how to call for assistance in pressuring companies - the two end strategy

Second Day.

9:00-9:15
Introduction of any new participants, review of previous days training.

9:15-9:45

Lecture: How do we figure out where the shirt is going? Look at the label, look at the shirt!

  • Like everything else, the workers hold the answer in their hands - it's the label.
  • How to identify if a product is going to the U.S. or Canada. RN #s and CA #s - show sample shirts.
  • Use of the RN # to track who uses this number to import, using database systems. Often famous labels are easily recognizable, like Gap or Liz Claiborne. It's the unknown ones that are hard to track, and then we have to rely on outside allies of ours to connect that label with the store where it's being sold.
  • Why a label? The Multifibre Agreement, garment quotas, and re-labelling. Answer the question "why so many mainland Chinese manufacturers?" And "why did the garment factories rebuild so quickly after Hun Sen's coup last year, even after the factories were looted?"
  • Other sorts of tags they may run across - show samples.
  • WIFM for the American textile unions - US unions want to help Cambodian workers get fair treatment, and also can use abuses of workers for collective bargaining solutions.

9:45-10:15

Small Group Exercise: Brainstorm on what provisions of the labor law garment manufacturers most frequently violate? Use labor law copies to review against what they know are the most frequent violations.

10:15-10:30 COFFEE BREAK

10:30-10:50 Presentation of the Small Group Work

10:50-12:00 Lecture: What Can We Do Next?

  • Training workers & putting together the product with the CORPORATE CODE OF CONDUCT is the first step. Draw the diagram of information from the local to the international.
  • Building unions - why a code by itself isn't enough to protect workers. Need to worker cohesion, workers determine issues to be raised with employers, workers ensure real monitoring by company, MOL, or outside evaluators.
  • Training in labor investigation techniques - what human rights & labor activists need to look for at the factory, how to get workers separate (approach at home) from work, searching out information at the factory.
  • International allies and international communications. Basic political theory and the school fight. Issue selection as the "cry" to the international allies to widen the circle. Distribute labor NGOs list.
  • Information resource center as next step from training. Idea of a CORPORATE CODE OF CONDUCT reference library at the NGOs to use when workers come in with complaints. (how to get updates?).
  • International labor solidarity - what does mean. The altruistic side & the WIFM side. But getting it straight, clearly identifying targets. Also the ITGLWF-TWARO.
  • AFL-CIO's GSP case. How to leverage improvements with trade pressure.

Phil Robertson is a Bangkok-based labor activist and educator with 10 years of work experience in Thailand, Cambodia and Burma. He can be contacted by e-mail at: reaproy@usa.net

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