April, 2008
Blackspot shoes
Blackspot
was launched in 2005. Its mission "is to establish
a worldwide consumer cooperative and to reassert
consumer sovereignty over capitalism. We hope this
Blackspot sneaker venture is the beginning of a
new era in ethical, worker-friendly, environmentally
friendly production" . (1)
About the company: Adbusters
is a non-profit organization. All the profits
made from Blackspot shoes are funneled back into
Adbusters Magazine and other campaigns .(2)
Everyone who buys Blackspot shoes can register
online and become a participant consumer, which
means they can vote: Votes are held every so often,
the next one in 2008 is about shoe colour .(3)
Markets: The shoes
and boots are sold on the internet and through
independently owned retail stores in New Zealand,
Australia, Austria, UK, USA, Canada, Belgium,
Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland,
Ireland, Israel, Italy, Japan, Luxembourg, Netherlands,
Norway, Portugal and Switzerland.
Activities and products:
Adbusters publishes Adbusters magazine, organizes
campaigns such as Buy Nothing Day and TV turnoff
week and produces Blackspot shoes and boots and
other 'culture jamming materials'. The Blackspot
mark is open source and available for use on other
products.
Producers: All shoes
and boots are produced in a family-owned factory
in Felgueiras, Portugal. Blackspot shoes account
for a small percentage of the factory's output.
Standards: Adbusters
do not have an official "code of conduct":
the people who visited the factory use their personal
sense of judgement (4) and
state they have made sure the conditions, wages,
and treatment are extremely fair . (5)
Monitoring and verification:
Adbusters staff visit the factory every couple
of years and are in constant contact with the
factory. Information about working hours, wages
and conditions in the factory is available at
http://www.adbusters.org/metas/corpo/blackspotshoes/info.php
The Adbusters website states that 'about 40% of
the workers are registered [with the union]. Not
everyone chooses to belong to the union, as they
don't see any need for it. [...] [Workers] also
told us that the only factories in Portugal that
are 100% union are those under foreign ownership,
where workers feel more vulnerable than they do
working for local or community based employers.
'.(6)
Adbusters state that their staff have 'met with
employees who belong to the union; we met with
workers who liaise between employees and the union
(shop stewards); we met with union staff and staff
of the government-run umbrella organization that
administers the union. All meetings were in private.
All the people we interviewed were unequivocal
in their praise of the factory. A high degree
of transparency was evident' .(7)
Workers can email Adbusters or speak to their
trade union at if they have complaints.
Factory workers are not trained specifically
on the Blackspot philosophy, however, their union
trains them on their rights.
Comments and questions
Meeting with trade union members is an important
activity when assessing a factory, and the fact
that 40% of the workforce are unionized indicates
workers are not afraid to join.
Adbusters appear to be making efforts to check
on conditions at the factory, but checks seem
to follow fairly informal procedures. A stated
list of rights and conditions guaranteed by Adbusters
would make information more transparent, would
help staff to properly assess conditions and would
enable workers to understand complaints procedure
properly. It would also ensure a more systematic
and comprehensive approach that could ensure more
hidden problems are revealed.
We welcome the fact that Adbuster staff maintain
a personal relationship with the factory. As Adbuster
staff may not be experts in assessing working
conditions, it is important that they seek advice
and learn about best practice in monitoring and
auditing procedures. These include talking to
workers off-site, making unannounced factory visits,
ensuring the complaints procedure is displayed
in the correct language and identifying and working
with other buyers from the factory to ensure that
all buyers work together and don't duplicate efforts.
It is important that they find out about the
local context, such as local laws and prevailing
conditions, in which they are working, for example
by talking to outside parties. For example Adbusters
were unable to state what a living wage is for
the region or how a living wage might compare
to the wage workers were receiving. Although the
wage rate at the factory is higher than the minimum
wage, this may not signify a living wage.
It is positive that the local union is able to
train on workers rights, and this should take
priority over buyer training and codes. Knowledge
and information about Blackspot and its philosophy
could also help strengthen the bargaining position
of workers.
Maintaining a long term relationship with the
factory is a positive step if this means that
this reduces pressure from the factory (and therefore
workers) to meet short-lead times. The long-term
relationship can also mean that the factory is
able to make long term plans and keep workers
are permanent contracts.
Notes: