April, 2008
No Sweat
Bienestar
is a for-profit company, with a long-term goal 'to
help organize the better half of the global garment
industry within the next 10 years'.
The company was set up by labour and feminist
activists Jeff Ballinger, Lynne Lyman and Natalia
Muina amongst others. 7.5% of pretax profit is
donated to anti-sweatshop organizations and union
organising funds in the developing world(1).
Their long-term objective is to own and operate
some of their manufacturing (between 50% and 70%)
in model factories located in free trade zones
in the developing world, to enable organising
elsewhere in the free trade zones. They note the
challenge that as employers, they cannot organise
workers without creating a company union(2).
Markets: No Sweat
products are sold through the internet and in
stores in USA, Canada, UK, Austria, Belgium, Finland,
Germany, France, Sweden, Ireland, Norway, the
Netherlands, Australia and New Zealand.
Activities: Bienestar
International manufactures footwear and casual
clothing under the brand name No Sweat. Information
about workers' rights is also available through
the company's website.
Producers: All No
Sweat clothing and footwear is made in production
facilities with independent trade union members
or in worker cooperatives in the US, Canada and
the developing world, with the expectation that
at least 30% of their production will be in the
USA(3). No Sweat believes
they are the first open-source clothing manufacturer,
meaning they reveal the source of all their manufacturers.
They give two reasons for this: one is so that
further business can be generated for the unionised
production facilities and secondly, to encourage
other brands and retailers to reveal their sources
(4).
No Sweat manufacturers (undated) listed on their
website(5) are:
- Arja Textiles, Bethlehem, Palestine: unionised
- Artex Knitting Mills, Inc.: unionised
- NJ Headware / Unionwear: unionised
- Nueva Vida, Nicaragua: worker owned cooperative
- PT Sepatu Bata TBK, Indonesia (possibly pulled
out)Quality Knitting Limited, Toronto, Canada:
unionised
- Union Line Inc. / Graybear, Chicago, USA:
unionised
- Universal Sportswear, Bangor, USA: unionised
- Wigwam Mills, Inc., USA: unionised
Standards: No Sweat
do not have a code of conduct, but state they source
from factories that pay a living wage, have decent
working conditions and have a trade union(6).
Reporting: A profile
of each of No Sweat's manufacturers is available
on the company's website, although information
about a number of manufacturers appears not to
have been updated since 2006. The information
available varies from manufacturer to manufacturer,
but generally includes information about wages
and benefits, staff visits and conditions. In
addition, 'Each box of No Sweat's faux Chucks
contains a card detailing the wages and benefits
of the Indonesian workers who manufactured the
shoes'(7).
Monitoring and verification:
No Sweat begin the answer to a frequently
asked question about trade unions with, 'To paraphrase
Winston Churchill, unions, like all democratic
forms of governance, are the worst systems conceivable,
except for all the alternatives'. Recognising
trade unions vary in their ability to represent
workers, No Sweat look at the history of the trade
unions(8), their track record,
their leadership and their rank and file.
Reports of staff visits to factories are available
on the No Sweat website(9).
Whilst choosing not to work with corporate sponsored
auditors, the company says they will use independent
auditors in Palestine and that audits have been
carried out in Indonesia. No Sweat argue that
'Corporate sponsored workplace monitoring is a
top down solution. Independent trade unions are
a bottom up solution. We favor both - what the
British call a belt and braces approach. A binding
union contract turns the workers themselves into
a monitoring presence that's hard to fool(10).
Comments and questions
Sadly, No Sweat did not respond to questions from
the Clean Clothes Campaign.
No Sweat's approach in terms of actually looking
at using their leverage to support independent
organising is to be welcomed. Unlike many other
initiatives it has an approach that has the potential
to open space up for worker organsing and empowerment.
Making its list of manufacturers available is
a way of encouraging other brands and retailers
to source from the same locations. However, it
would be useful if the information about suppliers
was updated regularly, so that it is clear which
period the information applies to.
It's not clear from the No Sweat website how
or how often the trade union / cooperative communicates
with No Sweat. It is also not possible to know
if a collective bargaining agreement between management
and the trade union needs to be in place, or being
worked towards, before No Sweat choose to source
from the factory.
Notes: