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Country reports Clean Clothes Campaign -
November 2003 - February 2004
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Austria - Kampagne für
faire Arbeitsbedingungen weltweit
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France - Collectif De
l'éthique sur l'étiquette
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Germany - Kampagne für
'Saubere' Kleidung
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Sweden - Kampanjen Rena
Kläder
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Austria - Clean Clothes - Kampagne für faire
Arbeitsbedingungen weltweit
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Sports and Olympics Campaign
The preparations for the Olympics campaign are going well, and
a separate working group inside the platform was established
together with activists, consisting of a network of activists.
In Vienna 20 volunteers are working for the Olympics campaign,
in the regional capitals we have about 5 volunteers in each.
We developed a new workshop on the theme of football production
with the main target group football clubs.
Other activities and Events
Fairtrade Weeks Vienna
In December the Fair Trade Weeks took place in Vienna. CCC organised
Clean Clothes film days and theatre performances.
Theatre tour
In December we organised 20 CCC theatre performances all over
Austria with an audience of 1500 people in total. The play was
especially made up by a international group of actors from Latin
America and Europe for the Austrian CCC.
Women's journey to India
In January Frauensolidarität organized a women's journey
to India mainly focusing on Codes of Conduct. About 15 women
(mainly politicians and journalists) took part.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
North Sails Lanka
We organised an Urgent Appeals tour with 4 representatives of
the FTZWU from the 8th to 10th of December. We held a public
meeting in Linz, and meetings with platform organisations. There
was a press conference in Linz and we had negotiations at Boards&More
headquarter together with trade union on the 9th of December.
A understanding was reached which is a good starting point,
and we agreed to pause campaign. Lots of newspaper articles
appeared in the most popular Krone.
PT Kahatex
1186 people participated from September 2003 till now.
We also did a series of press releases on the case because s.Oliver
is the sponsor of a casting show called "Starmania"
on Austrian television, and made up some stir.
Partner Activities
Meetings and activities together with FTZWU,
Sri Lanka connected to NSL, see above.
Companies
Monitoring and Verification
We have ongoing talks with companies; still nothing concrete,
because of a lack of resources.
Brand related work
Public Authorities
Governmental Action
We engaged in discussions with the National OECD contact
point on the "UN-Norms on the responsibilities of trans
national corporations and other business enterprises with regard
to human rights" in January.
Belgium North - Schone Kleren Campagne
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Clean Clothes Communities
53 resolutions have been adopted as yet. Antwerp: presentation
at a provincial NGO meeting + deputy commits to adopting resolution
Ieper: training session with local politicians and civil servants
from different departments. We are seeking legal advice concerning
public tenders.
Clean Clothes at work
Several companies have reacted till now.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
PT Kahatex
We sent the appeal to our mailing list of teachers.
Public Authorities
Social label
We have reached an agreement on verification. Several new proposals
regarding the social label law have recently been developed.
Belgium South - Vêtements propres
Public Awareness
Toy Campaign
November - December 2003
Results:
- High media impact
- High quality awareness raising (based on a game)
- Specific targeting on one aspect of the working conditions
(daily working time) in relationship with sourcing practices
(delivery time)
- Excellent distribution of the folder-game through crossing
networks :
- 100.000 Ligueur (weekly newspaper of the association
of families)
- 27.000 mailing Magasins du monde- OXFAM + 30.000 participants
in Made in Dignity
- unions of teachers
- all the primary schools in the Belgian French speaking
community (support of the Ministry)
- articles in the newspapers of the members
Olympic campaign
We are preparing the International Forum in Brussels (end of
April).
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
Public procurements: the field is now
open for experimentation after the new EU directive; we will
test the willingness of the public authorities.
Belgian social label: a new referential is published.
France - Collectif De l'éthique sur l'étiquette
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Olympic campaign:
- Training for local CCCs : 2 days in Paris (24/25 January).
Success : 60 participants expected. 100 people wanted to
attend the meeting. 75 were accepted. Some of the participants
are now organizing local trainings
- Publication of a handbook for local activists
- The French CCC rating committee had 2 meetings in January.
A new rating document will be published at the launch of
the campaign. It will also be included in a booklet on the
working conditions in the sportswear industry, published
with the monthly magazine "Alternatives économiques"
(100 000 copies)
- The campaign was launched the 9th of March (national press
conference and event : presentation of the Olympic report
+ rating documents on retailers code and implementation
+ lobby tools & petition/IOC; goal 200 000 signatures
and postcards targeting the 3 main French sport retailers
: Décathlon, Go Sport and Intersport).
- Local CCCs action days 10-14th of March (110 local CCC
in France)
- National action day 25th of June (Olympic torch in Paris)
In 2005 and probably 2006 (World Football Cup
in Germany) we intend to focus our campaigns on working conditions
in the sportswear industry.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
PT Busana : Meeting with the president of Le Coq Sportif,
2 Indonesian unionists, Réseau solidarité and
French CCC.
Public Authorities
- Ethical Procurement
There is a new French law on public procurements since December.
A lawyer is making an analysis for us, and it seems open
to social criteria's. The main problem is that procedures
are now very light; this could lead to less transparency
and more corruption.
- Legal Action
A French law on economic regulation was voted in 2001.
The main French companies have to publish a report on the
social and environmental impact of their activities. An
evaluation is made by the government on the implementation
of that law. We have published a statement asking among
other things for :
- more precise social criteria'
- independent verification of the companies declaration
The 18th of March, we will have a meeting with
a member of the cabinet of the secretary of state for sustainable
development, in charge with the evaluation.
Germany - Kampagne für 'Saubere' Kleidung
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Olympic Campaign:
We have established a working group on the Olympic campaign.
We launched the campaign with the release of CCC-Oxfam-TU-report
with a common press release at March 4th.
Activities: Participation at Karstadt-marathon
25.4/ action-seminar 10-13 of June/ Action day at June 12th:
central action in Cologne with theatre, etc + press conference
+ activities in different German cities/ speakers tour with
one women from El Salvador/ 30.6 torch in Berlin.
Mode, Macht und Frauenrechte:
Different activities of the city groups of TERRE DES FEMMES
which will continue during the whole year of 2004.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
Kahatex, Indonesia
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
Nordrheinwestfalen: Project with different cities
is planned. First step will be sending around a questionnaire.
Hamburg: A resolution on ethical procurement was unanimously
adopted by the council for development policy to which a member
of TERRE DES FEMMES/CCC has been nominated by the Senate. The
resolution has been discussed by the secretaries of the state
of Hamburg in February and it was decided that concrete steps
for implementation should be developed and proposed.
New Publications and Materials
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Leaflet "Go" is introducing the
activities in the Sports summer/ Olympic campaign. Action
paper will be ready in March. (Both are made by CIR.)
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Nadelstiche von VerbraucherInnen - Modemultis
in Bewegung - Die Entwicklung von Verhaltenskodizes seit
1992", by Ulrike Tscherner, SÜDWIND Materialien
8, December 2003. (4 EURO/ 3,50 EURO and 3 EURO). This brochure
is a synopsis of the development of codes of conduct / social
standards between 1992 and 2003 of adidas, C&A, KarstadtQuelle,
Metro, Nike, Otto, Peek & Cloppenburg, puma, reebok
and the Foreign Trade Association of German Retailers. It
comprises tables by company as well as one summary table
of all companies.
the Netherlands - Schone Kleren Kampagne
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Fashion Files
The Fashion Files project has come to an end. The closing
of this project took place with a presentation by some of the
workshop leaders (Dutch students that visited Sri Lanka) at
a public meeting - 7th December - which the CCC organised for
her subscribers of the urgent appeal system. The materials (such
as a video or discussion methods) can be applied for through
the website. The workshop leaders aren't available any more,
through this way schools still have the possibility to cover
this subject at their classes.
Olympic Campaign
We are busy with the preparations. The coalition consists
of CCC, Novib and FNV, but other organisations are willing to
communicate information (publish articles, make links at their
websites, distribute petition etc).
At November 26th, a first letter to the Dutch Olympic Committee
(NOC*NSF) has been sent out. At December 5th, a meeting was
arranged. Round the table sat: Yanti and Mulyani (unionist and
ex- PT Busana Prima Global worker from Indonesia), marketing
manager of the NOC*NSF, Novib, FNV and CCC. NOC*NSF is preparing
of a letter to the IOC to underline their support to our campaign
and our demand for a meeting between IOC at the one hand and
a delegation of Oxfam Int., Global Unions and CCC at the other
hand. Letters are sent to (three large) sports organisations.
Other activities and Events
Urgent Appeal Tour
From December 4th till 14th, the CCC organised a speaker tour
with guests from Sri Lanka and Indonesia. Indrani Wijebandara
(North Sails Lanka), Deepika Sriyakanthi (Jaqalanka), Sugandhi
Jayakody (Star Garments) and Anton Marcus (Free Trade Zone Workers
Union) from Sri Lanka, together with Mulyani (PT Busana Prima
Global) and Emelia Yanti (ABGteks) from Indonesia visited four
countries in Europe to raise awareness, meet with the companies
involved in their respective cases and to try and push for an
improvement of their situation using international pressure.
- December 4th
About 30 activists put a banner on the building of
Mees Pierson, stating Head should stop exploiting workers
at PT Busana Prima Global in Indonesia. Mees Pierson is
the investment bank that operates as the country's representative
for sports brand Head. Head called the next day, but refused
to talk to the representative of the workers, Mulyani. The
action appeared on national radio and in various newspapers.
Since then there hasn't been any contact with Head. We are
preparing follow up actions. A tape of Mulyani has been
made with a message directed at Head.
- December 5th:
The workers and union leaders went on a bus tour through
the country, visiting shops that sell brands that are involved
in the different urgent appeal cases, such as North Sails,
Head, Le Coq Sportif and Lotto. They spoke to a lot of buyers
and sales people, raising awareness and getting them to
take action and contacting their head offices. Also, they
met with a marketing manager of the Dutch Olympic Committee,
to speak about the upcoming Olympic campaign.
- December 7th:
A public day for Dutch protest letter writers was set
up, giving the participants the opportunity to meet some
of the people they have taken action for. Approximately
50 people attended this meeting. The day consisted of a
panel discussion with our Indonesian and Sri Lankan guests,
a fashion show, testimonies of the students who visited
Sri Lankan factories with regard to the closing of the Fashion
Files project, and the opening of the exhibition The Clothes
She Wears.
In between the various meetings and actions, the visitors
were interviewed by a variety of journalists.
Museum night
During museum night, museums open their doors, so did the
Union Museum at November 29th. CCC contributed with a huge T-shirt
covering the whole room. People could stick their head through
the T-shirt and then learn about the labour conditions in the
garment industry. Letters of protest concerning the Shree Jee
fire in India were distributed.
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
North Sails Lanka
In follow up of the action at Makkum beach, North Sails
action cards and letters of protest were distributed through
workshops at schools. Also via the website people could send
their signature of protest. With regard to the upcoming speaker
tour, contact has been made with the importer of North Sails
to organise a meeting with him and Indrani (dismissed NSL worker)
and Anton (FTZWU). He refused. Instead, we passed by several
North Sails shops (bus tour at December 5th) to discuss the
problems at North Sails Lanka and asked them to contact the
importer and Boards & More (of which North Sails is a division)
to raise this issue. We also visited the shop of Stefan van
de Berg, who is the former Olympic champion - he did sign the
big action card. Our Sri Lankan guests went to Austria afterwards,
where they had a meeting with the management of North Sails
Lanka (they flew in for this meeting), the management of Boards
& More, the Austrian CCC and OGB (Austrian union). CCC Austria
organised a press conference in advance. An agreement was signed.
In turn: CCC stopped their campaign as long as the negotiations
are constructive.
PT Busana Prima Global
See December 4th of the Urgent Appeal tour. Mulyani left
a message to Head on a video tape. We are preparing following
up actions, exposing this message on a big screen in front of
Mees Pierson again.
Companies
Monitoring and Verification
Fair Wear Foundation (FWF) has eight participants. The
group of work wear companies seems to be an important group;
FWF tries to reach these via the branch organization. With Vendex
KBB, FWF has a pilot in India. Vendex KBB has their own monitoring
system (AVE). At March 24th FWF will present the new partners
to press and public.
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
Clean Clothes Communities
- A guide on public procurement, prepared by bureau City
Purchasing, has been adopted by the City Council of Amsterdam.
They agreed upon a yearly evaluation of civil services.
If there is not enough progress being made, it will be public
announced on their website. The guide will be printed in
a book form, CCC wrote the afterword for this.
- In cooperation with Utrecht, a meeting was prepared for
municipalities in the province of Utrecht. The meeting took
place at February 19th.
- SOMO started researching on the Ministry of Defense following
the resolution adopted by the Dutch government at the end
of 2002. We are preparing letters to different ministries
to point to their responsibility regarding the execution
of the resolution.
New Publications and Materials
The Clothes She Wears: exhibition
The opening of this new exhibition took place at the public
meeting at December 7th. This exhibition is composed by Siobhan
Wall who is an artist and volunteer for the CCC. It shows the
clothes of eight women of different countries working in garment
factories or at home. This goes along with their personal stories.
The exhibition will travel through the Netherlands and Europe.
A brochure is made (Dutch / English).
Dutch newsletter ´Schoon Genoeg´, December
2003: new style, new lay-out.
Brochure on garment industry in Southern Africa , focus
on Madagascar and Mauritius, based on SOMO research executed
in 2002
Coin stickers
Sweden - Kampanjen Rena Kläder
Public Awareness
Campaigns
Play Fair at the Olympics
On December 18th 2003 we sent a letter to the president
of the Sweden's Olympic Committee. Till now, we have received
no answer. Much of the work right now is focusing on initiating
local activities all over Sweden. So far at least five cities
have joined in, but there will be more. We are also working
on a Swedish campaign website, which should be the motor of
the campaign in Sweden. One of our member organisations created
a special focus group for the campaign - they will try and get
sport celebrities to in some way support the campaign.
Other activities and Events
INTUC exchange
At the end of 2003 an exchange program took place between
the Swedish and the Indian trade union movements. The purpose
of this exchange was to increase the understanding between the
movements and figure out how we can help each other.
A sample of activities in Sweden during the stay of the Indian
delegation:
- Lunch meeting/ small seminar arranged by LO-TCO Secretariat
of International Trade Union Development Cooperation
- Speech on Education day in Visby arranged by Industrial
Workers Union and Social Democratic Youth
- Red Cross Movement Education Centre
- Swedish Church Youth wing in Uppsala
- The School of Textiles at Borås University College
- Meeting with trade unionists who are member of the Swedish
Parliament.
- Several individual meetings with activists from NGO's
and Trade Unions.
Action days in December
In December 2003 two small actions took place. One in Visby
and one in Gothenburg. On both places around ten activists were
leafleting outside garment stores. In Visby it was arranged
by Industrifacket and Social Democratic Youth and in Gothenburg
it was arranged by Swedish Church Youth.
Op-ed article in Göteborgs Posten
On the 13th of December 2003 all presidents of the member organisations
of Rena Kläder and the co-ordinator wrote an Op-ed in Göteborgs
Posten. The issue was the fact that none of the Swedish garment
and shoe retailers have implemented their code of conduct in
a proper way.
School Tour October 2004
We are planning a joint project with the Swedish Trade Union
Confederation (LO). The main purpose is to reach youth in upper
high school. We want to arrange seminars and workshops for the
kids. LO feel the need to explain the idea of trade union membership
and trade union rights, because it gets harder and harder to
organize young people in Sweden. We think that young people
are interested in international questions and solidarity issues,
so the CCC will explain why trade union rights are important
with our examples from the rest of the world.
LO has got 19 districts all over Sweden. We invited them all
to join the Tour, and from a central level LO provided funding
for the districts if they did. 18 answered positive. All districts
have special educated activists with experience in informing
youths in schools. CCC will have a special course for this people
about the garment industry and the CCC. We will produce 18 exhibitions
and distribute them to the districts. The president of LO (Wanja
Lundby-Wedin) offered schools a whole day with seminars and
workshops about global economy, the trade union and the garment
industry for free.
In October this year, during one week, 90 upper high schools
will learn about trade unions rights and the garment industry.
Except for seminars and workshops there will postcards actions
and something to attract local media with. Hopefully, the board
of LO will visit some schools during this week. The teachers
will be provided a guide about how to work with this issue before
and after the lessons.
This means that in 18 districts we visit five schools each,
and with 600 - 1000 pupils per school we will reach 54 000 -
90 000 children.
Result: Higher knowledge about CCC among youth, more contact
and cooperation with LO both on a board level and on a grassroots
level, media attention both in local and national media (national
if the LO board makes a mini-tour during the week), reaching
a lot of teachers and hopefully a lot of postcards are sent
to companies.
Solidarity Work
Partner Activities
The INTUC exchange described above.
Companies
Monitoring and Verification
Report on Swedish Codes
We have made a report about the codes of Swedish retailers,
and how they work with it and implement it.
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
This Autumn we decided to work on the Clean Clothes
Communities project. Soon, we realised that there is special
legislation in Sweden around Public Procurement: a municipality
is allowed to demand ethical efforts of suppliers. As we don't
know how frequent this legislation is used, before we start
campaigning we need an overview of that. This resulted in our
support for a project that tries to evaluate the legislation
but at the same time develops a guide for both community authorities
that plan to procure ethically and citizens that want to campaign
on the authorities to do so. This will result in a publication
at the beginning of this Summer.
New Publications and Materials
 
Switzerland - Clean Clothes Campaign
Public Awareness
Olympics 2004
Media work in Spring time and public actions during Summer
time (July / August 2004) is planned.
Public Eye on Davos (=parallel conference to the World
Economic Forum WEF, January 04)
On January 22 2004 there was a panel discussion and a workshop
on labour conditions in the sporting goods industry in Davos,
organised by Berne Declaration. Results: the main struggle in
Bangladesh today is the fight for the right to organise in EPZs
(where TUs are still illegal by law); BIGUF asked companies
and institutions for more workers participation, more transparency
and for long-term relationship with suppliers, but the Sporting
goods industry (WFSGI) refused to participate; FLA-CEO A. van
Heerden confirmed non-compliance with labour laws and social
standards within suppliers for FLA-companies; F. Roselaers confirmed
that the fight against child labour is part of a general attempt
to improve the respect of the core labour standards; the question
"what is the approach of the parallel means for trade union
rights (ex in the SA 8000 system)?" remained unanswered.
Participants at the panel "Are fair labour conditions
possible in the sporting goods industry?" : Ms. Asma,
President, Bangladesh Independent Garment Workers' Union Federation
(BIGUF) and former factory worker; Neil Kearney, (ITGLWF), Frans
Röselaers, Director, International Programme for the Elimination
of Child Labour (IPEC), International Labour Organization (ILO);
Auret van Heerden, President and CEO, Fair Labor Association,
Ineke Zeldenrust, International Secretariat of the Clean Clothes
Campaign, Netherlands; Moderation: Stefan Indermühle, Berne
Declaration, Switzerland (http://www.evb.ch/index.cfm?page_id=2787).
Public debates Discussion on CCC at the
University of Lausanne (15.12.2003 on CSR and the role of NGOs)
and University of Zurich (7.1.2004 on ethical trade and marketing);
debate on fair trade in Wettingen (23.11.2003) and in Zurich
on Bangladesh (with Asma from BIGUF with the documentary film:
"Race to the Bottom" www.esperanza.ie/news.html,
23.1.2004). Planning: University of Zurich (21.2.04) on CSR
+ Ethics; women group in Bülach (4.3.04) on fashion and
fair trade.
Solidarity Work
North Sails Lanka
We have put an update on the Swiss web page.
Companies
Assessment of retailers
In collaboration with a consumer organisation we'll make a joint
publication in 2004. A questionnaire has been send out to around
35 companies. We have had a very good response so far. Publication
is planned for September.
United Kingdom - Labour Behind the Label
Public Awareness
Campaigns
A Clean Clothes at Work campaign is just
starting in the UK. Research is being carried out to clarify
the legal situation (some contradictory evidence so far) and
to identify local authorities willing to take part in a pilot
project. A meeting (between researcher, No Sweat, UK unions
and LBL) has taken place on 14 February to take this project
further forward.
Olympic campaign
TUC, LBL and Oxfam GB have so far worked together to plan the
details of the campaign launch (4 March), to identify most appropriate
targets, to organise Olympic campaign stalls and fringe meetings
at some 12 trade union conferences, to produce campaign materials
and to identify international speakers.
Other activities and Events
Fashion colleges: We are planning to work
with a number of fashion colleges to design a teaching module
on ethics in the garment industry. At present working on a pilot
with one London college.
Also: school workshops, seminar for fashion students, presence
at a number of national events, street actions outside La Senza
shops (Gina Form).
Solidarity Work
Urgent Appeals
Urgent appeals were sent to MEPs on public
procurement, UK members of Parliament about CSR, and disseminating
calls for international solidarity from workers of Tarrant in
Mexico, Jaqalanka in Sri Lanka and PT Busana in Indonesia.
Companies
Brand related work
As part of PT Busana appeal, LBL organised a
programme of activities in the UK for Mulyani (PT Busana Prima
Global) and Emelia Yanti (ABGteks). Mulyani and Emelia Yanti
met with the management of GPS, the company where Le Coq Sportif,
Lotto and Head place their orders, and which then subcontracts
these to Pt Busana Prima Global. GPS had up to this point always
refused to get in direct contact with the union. During this
meeting between GPS holding company Vertical Sports Group, ABGteks,
LBL War on Want and GMB London, GPS agreed to inform PT Busana
Prima Global management that they support freedom of association
and will facilitate a meeting between the union and factory
management. This meeting has now taken place and we have just
heard that it has failed to make any progress towards the re-instatement
of workers. During the meeting, GPS said that they would audit
the factory in February.
Mulyani and Yanti met with several representatives
of UK unions, were interviewed on BBC Radio 4 and spoke at a
public meeting at the University of London, jointly organised
by LBL, No Sweat and War on Want.
Public Authorities
Ethical Procurement
Legal action: LBL supporting lobbying
by Core, a coalition of UK NGOs calling for regulations of activities
by UK-based TNCs.
New Publications and Materials
The website of LBL has been redesigned.
We have produced bulletins 18 to 20.
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