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For immediate release
MAJOR EUROPEAN COMPANIES SOURCING AT COLLAPSED BANGLADESH FACTORY
Amsterdam, April 15, 2005
The Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) has confirmed that a number of major
European-headquartered garment companies produced their goods at the
Bangladesh factory that collapsed early Monday April 11th. The death
toll in this tragedy continues to rise, while the majority of workers
remain trapped inside. To date only approximately 100 workers have reportedly
emerged alive from the rubble. Reports on how many workers were in the
factory at the time range from approximately 200 - 400.
The facility, Spectrum Sweater Ltd, located in Savar, an industrial
town northwest of Dhaka, collapsed around 1 a.m. Monday, also damaging
the adjacent Shariar Fabrics Ltd. The collapse is generally being attributed
to faulty design and construction, though an investigation into the
exact cause of the collapse of the nine-story factory, built on marshland,
is ongoing. While it remains unclear if the factory had a licence from
the factory inspections division of the Ministry of Labour to legally
operate a night shift, the company was clearly in violation of Bangladesh
labor law by allowing women to work in the factory at the time of the
collapse. Local unions are calling for the immediate arrest and prosecution
of the factory owners on the grounds of criminal negligence.
The CCC deplores this senseless loss of life and calls upon the relevant
stakeholders to follow-up in the short term, in relation to issues of
rescue and relief efforts and compensation, and in the long term to
ensure that such a preventable tragedy does not happen again.
The CCC has learned from various sources that the Spanish-based Zara
(Inditex group), French-based Carrefour, Belgian-based Cotton Group,
the German companies Steilmann and Neckermann, and the Dutch-based Scapino
have produced their garments at Spectrum Sweater.
The CCC, in consultation with partner organizations
in Bangladesh, has identified the following issues that must be followed
up on in relation to this tragedy:
1. Appropriate relief and compensation: Companies
sourcing at this factory must provide support to ensure that those involved
in rescue and relief efforts have all the resources they need to extract
survivors and the dead from the building. Companies must ensure that
compensation in the amount of 200,000 taka (approx. 2,443 euros) is
given to the families of the dead; compensation in the amount of 50,000
taka to the injured, as well as medical treatment. Unions have also
called for the immediate payment of wages, including overtime, that
was owed to workers. For more information on these demands the CCC requests
that buyers consult with local organizations, such as the National Garment
Workers Federation (NGWF), the Bangladesh Independent Garment Workers'
Union Federation (BIGUF), and the Bangladesh Textile and Garment Workers
League (BTGWL).
2. Full, independent and transparent investigation:
A thorough investigation, with participation of local credible stakeholders,
into the causes of the building collapse must take place and those responsible
must be brought to justice. Such an investigation should also include
looking at the failures of government, the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers
and Exporters Association (BGMEA), the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers
and Exporters Association (BKMEA), and companies sourcing at the factory
to prevent, detect, or remediate violations of construction rules and
labor laws. Many of the European companies producing at Spectrum Sweaters
have codes of conduct including the right to a safe and healthy workplace,
and claim to regularly audit their suppliers to ensure that these standards
are met. These programs have been clearly insufficient, and the dramatic
failure to ensure the safety of the Spectrum workers has cost these
young women and men their lives. Companies should publicly disclose
their audit reports of this facility. The BGMEA should publicly disclose
reports on their fire safety program at Spectrum Sweater. The investigation
should yield a complete list of those who died in the factory collapse;
all investigation findings should be publicly disclosed.
3. Immediate structural measures to prevent future,
similar incidents: The Spectrum building collapse follows a long line
of tragedies at garment factories in Bangladesh where the failure to
implement safety measures has contributed to conditions that caused
the death of garment workers (53 dead in 2000 at Choudury Knitwear,
24 dead in 2001 at Maico Sweater, nine dead in 2004 at Misco Supermarket,
23 dead at Shan Knitting in 2005). The CCC fears that it is becoming
accepted that workers will die in the production of cheap sweaters for
Western consumer markets; this is outrageous. Therefore industry, along
with public authorities (at the local and international levels) must
commit to launch an immediate initiative to take on the safety issues
that plague the garment industry in Bangladesh, including a structural
review of multi-story buildings and facilities inspection mechanisms.
The CCC recommends that an independent international oversight committee/program
be formed that is charged with examining occupational health and safety
regulations and their implementation (including emergency regulations).
Such a committee/program should be composed of people with expertise
in civil engineering, health and safety, and international labor standards
in the garment industry. In addition to addressing technical matters,
workers' access to safe channels by which they can communicate their
concerns on issues such as health and safety to their employers must
also be addressed. The committee should be given a multi-year assignment
in order to ensure that follow-up takes place on any recommendations
that will be made.
The trade unions and NGOs active in the Clean Clothes Campaign network
will continue to follow-up on this case with the companies involved.
Regular public updates and calls for action to support efforts to push
companies to take responsibility for the working conditions where their
garments are produced will be distributed through the CCC International
Urgent Action Network and posted on the CCC International website <www.cleanclothes.org>.
For more information on the Spectrum Sweater collapse please contact:
CCC International Secretariat:
Tel: +31-20-412-2785
E-mail: info@cleanclothes.org
The Clean Clothes Campaign is an international network of trade unions
and NGOs that aims to improve conditions and empower workers in the
global garment industry.
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