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SPECTRUM - SHAHRIYAR UPDATE # 4, June 1
Workers increasingly desperate: Companies sourcing at Spectrum-Shahriyar
must take action now!
Dear Friends,
The
CCC is distressed that to date no concrete action has been taken by
the companies who were sourcing from the Shahriyar owned Spectrum factory
that collapsed on April 11 to meet the outstanding demands on compensation
factory workers and their families. Scores of workers were severely
injured when the factory building collapsed and the death toll has now
reached 74, the number of wounded is estimated to be more than 100 and
over 5000 workers were left unemployed.
It
is now almost two months since the factory collapsed and many of the
victims' families and survivors tell of how they have been left homeless
since, without any source of income, they can no longer pay their rent
or pay for food. This situation could have been prevented had companies
acted in time. The CCC feels that this delay is totally unnecessary
and given the desperate situation of the workers and their families,
we now call upon consumers and citizens to directly pressure Karstadt
Quelle, (Germany), Steilmann and its group companies (Germany), Scapino
(Netherlands), Cotton Group and B&C (Belgium), Carrefour (France)
and Zara/Inditex (Spain) as well as the BSCI (Business Social Compliance
Initiative), an industry controlled code of conduct initiative of which
most of the companies sourcing at Spectrum/Shahriyar are members) to
take action immediately.
Please
see the action requests and sample letters at the end of this update,
and also check the website of the CCCs in Germany, Spain, Belgium, France
and the Netherlands for information and action requests in national
languages.
In this update you can further find information on actions and protests
in Bangladesh and Europe since our last update of may 12, the latest
information regarding the situation in Bangladesh and the responses
of brands and the BSCI
For earlier updates and more background information on Spectrum-Shahriyar,
please check our website at: http://www.cleanclothes.org/news/spectrum_disaster.htm
ACTIVITIES BANGLADESH
On
May 12th, the Bangladeshi trade union organisations National Garment
Workers Federation (NGWF) and Bangladesh Garment Independent Workers
Federation (BGIWF) jointly organized an action outside the courthouse
where the bail application for the two arrested owners was heard. They
reported that the bail application was denied and this decision was
referred to as an 'historic decision' in the Bangladeshi labour movement.
On May 17th several hundred workers were blocked by police as they marched
to the offices of the Labour Ministry in Dhaka. After talks with the
police, four workers were permitted to hand over a three-point memo
to the Labour secretary in his chambers.
On
May 27th hundreds of garment workers, together with their colleagues
from the Spectrum/Shahriyar factory and their families organised a sit-in
strike at the Spectrum/Shahriyar building site. Relatives of the dead
and injured workers spoke to the rally and told of how they no longer
can provide for their basic necessities such as food and shelter. Protestors'
demands included payment of monthly wages and overtime payment for the
all workers, legal compensation for the workers of the 2 factories and
compensation for the families of the Killed and Injured workers under
Fatal Accident Compensation Act-1955 (which stipulates a higher compensation
than under the Workers Compensation Act now being used to determine
compensation).
The strike was organised by the NGWF together with its Savar zone committee.
Please click here [weblink Photo] for photographs of some of the protests
that were held in Bangladesh.
In the first two weeks of may a CCC researcher visited Bangladesh to
gather first-hand accounts from workers and document facts pertaining
to the disaster and the response of the Bangladeshi authorities, factory
owners and brands sourcing at Spectrum. The information collected will
be compiled in the form of a public report that will contain all relevant
information documenting the Spectrum disaster, including the responses
of the sourcing companies thus far. A preliminary report has already
been sent to the brands concerned and the report will appear on our
website shortly. For more information on this please contact the CCC
International Secretariat.
CURRENT STATE OF AFFAIRS
According
to the CCC investigations, and to information received from our trade
union and NGO partners and through the Bangladeshi media, the BGMEA
is only haphazardly paying some of the families of the dead workers
an amount of 79.000 Tk. They will then receive a further 21.000 Tk through
the labour courts. The amount of The 21000Tk. is according to law only
for accidents which result in serious injury, not for fatal accidents
resulting in death. However, a total amount of 100.000 Tk., or 1250
Euro, is clearly insufficient to compensate for loss of life and income
for families. NGOs and trade unions locally are calling for much higher
amounts, up to one million Tk. to families of workers killed, which
would be the amount awarded under the Fatal Accident Act. Legal action
is being taken by the unions and NGOs concerned calling for compensation
according to this act.
BGMEA
and the authorities are refusing to pay compensation to the wounded
survivors. Many of these workers have spent days buried under the rubble,
others are now invalids handicapped for life, and families have lost
their only source of income. It is beyond comprehension that the authorities,
as well as industry and buyers, are now refusing to ensure financial
compensation to these workers/families, which in our view is the extreme
minimum first step they should take. To make matters worse, we have
also received reports that in many cases injured workers are not receiving
proper treatment and/or are left to take care of their own medical costs.
A special medical board should be established to take responsibility
to see that workers receive proper treatment, expenses for which should
be fully paid (not by the workers).
As
a result of the factory collapse, over 5000 workers have been left unemployed.
Many of these workers are owed substantial amounts for outstanding wages
and overtime pay (we have confirmed reports that wages are outstanding
for most of the workers for April of this year, but it is possible that
workers are owed even more). None of their contracts have officially
been terminated, and therefore their wages should continue to be paid.
If these contracts are officially ended, according to the law, notice
should be given 4 months in advance and the workers should get 4 months
salary plus one month for each year worked. They should be assisted
in finding new jobs: the owners of Spectrum-Shahriyar continue to operate
nine other factories, all of whom are still running. Many of the brands
sourcing from Bangladesh workers have substantial numbers of suppliers
in that Bangladesh. Clearly there is scope to find jobs for these people,
and it is unclear to us why this effort is not being made.
With
respect to the issue of an independent and transparent investigation:
The BGMEA and the RAJUK (Government body) each have finalized their
reports, as have the police. All seem to point in the direction of a
construction fault as well as an illegal structure (9 floors instead
of the permitted 4 floors), but so far none of these reports have been
made public. The central and urgent problem presently is that there
is still no exact number or comprehensive public list of dead, missing
and surviving workers (those employed and working that night, and those
employed who were not working). This is unacceptable and of course also
creates great obstacles in terms of issuing compensation funds.
A
high-powered investigation committee with legal local standing should
be established to find out the actual number of dead, wounded, missing
persons and bodies officially recovered, and to specify which authority
should follow up on those findings. The brands and the BSCI should officially
request from the BGMEA and Bangladeshi authorities that this happens.
They should also request that the investigation reports from BGMEA and
RAJUK be made public.
With respect to the issue of structural prevention measures we have
yet to receive a response from the brands or from the BSCI to our proposals
for a program to take up safety issues, including a structural review
of multi-story buildings and workers' access to safe channels to communicate
their concerns on health & safety. We want to stress once more the
importance and urgency to undertake such a program: the Spectrum/Shahriyar
building is definitely not the only recently build factory in an area
prone to flooding. In addition to an international oversight committee
(including a role for the ILO) our Bangladeshi partners underline the
need for a permanent tripartite high-powered committee (government,
employers and trade unions) to be set up as part of the program.
BSCI
MEMBER COMPANIES TO VISIT BANGLADESH
A delegation consisting of the BSCI and several of its member companies
that were sourcing from Spectrum/Shahriyar (KarstadtQuelle, Inditex,
The Cotton Group) as well as the ITGLWF, are traveling to Bangladesh
this week for the 'investigative mission' that was originally scheduled
for early may, and now will take place from June 6th to June 8th . While
they have revealed that they will meet with workers, visit the disaster
site, they have not revealed the findings of the German Consultancy
that was commissioned to conduct an independent investigation of the
disaster. The delegation is scheduled to meet ministries and participate
in the 'roundtable meeting' organized on June 8 by GTZ (the German ministry
of development assistance). Though CCC was originally informed this
roundtable meeting, part of the regular BSCI code of conduct process,
would be the forum in which BSCI members would consult with local stakeholders,
we now understand that it is not even confirmed that the Spectrum/Shahriyar
tragedy follow-up will be on the official agenda. CCC International
and CCC Germany are distressed and confused about this, and committed
to following this up directly with all concerned. For this mission to
be credible we believe it must include individual consultations with
the trade unions that had membership at Spectrum/Shahriyar and those
presently actively involved in supporting the workers and mobilizing
legal action on the case. We expect the members of the BSCI mission
to also directly meet hospitalised workers and family members of dead
workers to pay their respects.
The CCC sent a letter to the BSCI on May 24th expressing its dismay
regarding the slowness of the process and the intransparency of the
mission which increasingly becomes a smokescreen to divert from the
real facts: no action has been taken to meet the needs of the injured
workers who can no longer work, their families, the families of the
dead workers and the thousands of workers who are left with no source
of income since April 11th. The BSCI has to date not responded to this
letter. A copy of this letter can be found on our website.
http://www.cleanclothes.org/codes/05-05-24-letter-to-bsci.htm
ACTIVITIES EUROPE AND BRAND RESPONSES
National CCCs have continued to pressure the brands based in their
countries. The German CCC presented information about Spectrum-Shahriyar
at the May 24th KarstadtQuelle Shareholders' meeting. They reported
that while the shareholders themselves responded positively and even
asked for more background information, KarstadtQuelle Supervisory Board
did not issue any statement at the time indicating how or if they planned
to help the workers in Bangladesh.
CCC reps raised the issue of Spectrum at several occasions at workshops
and in the plenary of the Ethical Trading Initiative conference that
was held in London on May 12th and 13th. The conference, where Shirin
Akther from Karmojibi Nari was also present, was attended by over 350
representatives from businesses, unions, NGO's and governments, including
from the BSCI, GTZ, the ILO with whom we had also several informal meetings.
There were many other brands sourcing from Bangladesh like H&M and
the GAP, we approached these last brands to ask for their support for
the call for structural preventative measures (see further down for
ways for you to do the same). European parliament member Richard Howitt
was a keynote speaker, and he spoke at some length about the Spectrum
case, reminding those present that the ethical trade movement would
ignore this at its peril, and called upon European brands and retailers
to make sure that the surviving workers and the families of the workers
who died would receive their rightful compensation.
The Belgian CCC met with the Cotton Group company (Belgium) whose orders
ready for shipments were stocked in the Spectrum factory at the time
of the collapse and that was sourcing at the Shahryiar next door building
damaged by the collapse of Spectrum and whose workers are without jobs
for this moment. The company stated that they will take steps to help
the workers and their families. Payment for product shipment completed
just before the factory collapsed will be used to priority to contribute
to pay compensations and wages to workers. The Cotton Group is also
awaiting the result of an audit on the structural security of the Shahriyar
factory before continuing any production at that factory already in
progress. Cotton Group orders that are not yet in production will be
canceled pending the release of the findings. Cotton Group has requested
construction plans and building authorizations from all its suppliers
in Bangladesh.
Carrefour has requested audits where a systematic review of construction
permits and legal authorisations will be conducted. Carrefour intends
to ask its suppliers in Bangladesh to provide it with documentary evidence
of construction permits for the buildings in which they operate, but
to date it has not made any commitment to help workers with compensation,
to enable them in obtaining necessities such as food and shelter. The
Trades Unions who are members of the Belgian CCC also started a letter
campaign towards Carrefour and on June 9th the Spectrum-Shahriyar issue
will be on the agenda at the works council meeting where management
will also be present.
The Dutch CCC met with the Dutch company Scapino (part of the KarstadtQuelle
group). Scapino stated that they recognised that help for the Spectrum-Shahriyar
workers had experienced unnecessary delays and they would inform the
BSCI about this in writing. Scapino also stated that they supported
the demands related to compensation regarding payment of back wages
and compensation for injured workers and their families as well as compensation
for families of the workers who were killed. However, in this meeting,
no actual amounts or concrete steps to make good on this were named.
Scapino also announced that they would commission audits with their
suppliers to ensure that their suppliers complied with legal safety
standards.
Following the example of the Maquila Solidarity Network (MSN) in Canada,
the CCC International Secretariat distributed a sample letter to the
National CCCs calling on them to contact brands in their countries who
are sourcing in Bangladesh but not at Spectrum-Shahriyar to also take
appropriate action. They are asked to urge the BGMEA to work with local
trade unions and NGOs to conduct a transparent investigation and ensure
adequate compensation, to contact all their Bangladeshi suppliers to
instruct them to review safety codes and ensure that they meet the legal
requirements for occupational health and safety, and to pledge support
for a structural safety program. Member companies of the Ethical Trading
Initiative in the UK are presently discussing this proposal. This is
an important action to take in addition to pressuring the brands who
were sourcing at Spectrum-Shahriyar. Please take action now to identify
brands in your own country who are sourcing from Bangladesh, and call
upon them to take these steps. You can find the sample letter below.
ACTION
REQUEST
Please first read the updates on
this appeal
It is essential that all brands who were sourcing
at Spectrum/Shahriyar at any given point in time over the last 4 years,
as well as the BSCI act immediately to provide compensation to the workers
and their families, and they should initiate a review of the implementation
of their occupational health and safety codes in garment factories in
Bangladesh.
Please find below the following sample letters, in which also the outstanding
demands can be found.
- Sample letter to the BSCI
- Sample letter to companies sourcing at Spectrum/Shahriyar
- Sample letter to companies sourcing in Bangladesh
(though not from Spectrum/Shahriyar).
Please send these letters to the addresses provided
to protest their lack of response to this tragedy.
1. Send a letter to the BSCI
Sample letter to the BSCI
BSCI
168, Av. De Cortenbergh
B-1000 Brussels
Tel.: 0032-2-762 05 51
Fax: 0032-2-762 75 06
Email: info@fta-eu.org
Jan A. Eggert
BSCI Secretary General
Email: jan.eggert@fta-eu.org
Tel.: 0032-2-741 64 02
Fax: 0032-2-762 75 06
Lorenz Berzau
BSCI Project Coordinator
Email: lorenz.berzau@fta-eu.org
Tel.: 0032-2-741 64 07
Fax: 0032-2-762 75 06
Date:
Re.: Support for victims of the Spectrum-Sharhriyar
disaster
Dear Mr. Eggert and Mr. Berzau,
I am writing to you to express my concern regarding
the BSCI's lack of response to the plight of the victims and families
of the Spectrum-Shahriyar factory in Bangladesh. I have been informed
by the Clean Clothes Campaign that while 74 workers were killed, more
than a hundred injured (some severely) and more than 5000 workers lost
their jobs, the BSCI has not taken any steps to help these workers and
their families. The CCC reported that these workers and their families
had lost their homes and could not even provide for their most basic
needs due to the loss of income.
I also understand that the Clean Clothes Campaign
contacted you specifically asking for you response in reply to the demands
presented in that letter and that the BSCI failed to issue a response.
At this time I call upon you to immediately respond to the demands below
by taking concrete measures to ensure that Spectrum-Shariyar workers
receive timely assistance, that a transparent investigation of the causes
of the collapse is conducted and that structural measures are put in
place to prevent a tragedy like this from ever happening again. These
demands, that apply to both the BSCI as well as the brands, have been
formulated as follows:
OUTSTANDING DEMANDS PER May 24th 2005
1. Compensation
All brands sourcing at Spectrum-Shahriyar at
any given point of time in the past 4 years should ensure that appropriate
compensation is paid to all families of the dead workers (according
the the fatal accident act, up to one million taka) as well as to the
injured workers (at least the same amount if not higher, including expected
loss of income over future working life, damages and all costs of treatment).
A special medical board should established to take responsibility to
see that workers receive proper treatment , expenses for which should
be fully paid (not by the workers).
All outstanding wages and overtime payments should
be paid immediately, and the circa 5000 workers who lost their jobs
at Spectrum/Shahriyar should continue to receive wages, and be assisted
in finding alternative employment. If officially terminated they should
receive payment at least the maximum amount allowed by law in case of
factory closure.
A public statement of intent to this effect should
be made by each brand and/or by the BSCI immediately to assure the workers,
their families and concerned consumers that action will be taken.
2. Regarding the investigation:
Support for high-powered investigation committee
with legal local standing should be established to find out the actual
number of dead, wounded, missing persons and bodies officially recovered,
and to specify which authority should follow up on those findings. The
brands and the BSCI should officially request from the BGMEA and Bangladeshi
authorities that this happens. They should also request that the investigation
reports from BGMEA and Rajuk be made public.
Many of the European companies producing at Spectrum
Sweaters have codes of conduct including the right to a safe and healthy
workplace, and claim to regularly audit their suppliers to ensure that
these standards are met. These programs have been clearly insufficient
to prevent, detect, or remediate violations of construction rules and
labor laws, and this dramatic failure has cost these young women and
men their lives. Companies should publicly disclose their audit reports
of this facility. The BGMEA should publicly disclose reports on their
fire safety program at Spectrum Sweater.
The code implementation schemes of all brands
sourcing at Spectrum/Shahriyar (and the scheme of the BSCI itself) --
none of whom identified the safety risks to the workers, nor addressed
any of many other violations to almost every element of the code --
should all be reviewed.
3. Regarding preventative measures:
Call upon industry, along with public authorities
(at the local and international levels) must commit to launch an immediate
initiative to take on the safety issues that plague the garment industry
in Bangladesh, including a structural review of multi-story buildings
and facilities inspection mechanisms. Such an initiative should examine
occupational health and safety regulations and their implementation
(including emergency regulations). A permanent tripartite high-powered
committee (government, employers and trade unions) should be set up
as part of the program, as well as an independent international oversight
committee. Such a committee should be composed of people with expertise
in civil engineering, health and safety, and international labor standards
in the garment industry.
In addition to addressing technical matters,
workers' access to safe channels by which they can communicate their
concerns on issues such as health and safety to their employers must
also be addressed. The initiative should be given a multi-year assignment
in order to ensure that follow-up takes place on any recommendations
that will be made.
The brands and the BSCI should issue a statement
indicating their support for a such an initiative.
This call for immediate action on health and
safety issues comes in addition to ongoing demands that the right to
organize, the right to collective bargaining, the right to one day off
per week (Friday) and a 48 hour working week with no forced overtime,
the right the earn a living wage, and the right to security of employment
(appointment letter) and regular payment of salaries and benefits (health,
maternity) be respected throughout the sector. Brands, industry and
government should individually and collectively take credible steps
in this regard. Experience has demonstrated that the implementation
of basic labour rights is interconnected and for any attempt to make
sustainable progress on health and safety issues action has to be taken
on these other issues as well.
I hope that the BSCI appreciates the urgency
of attending to this matter and that there will be no further delays
in taking concrete measures to help the Spectrum-Shahriyar workers.
I look forward to hearing your response, including
the action you have taken in this matter.
Yours Sincerely,
[name]
2. Send a letter to companies sourcing at Spectrum/Shahriyar
To:
ZARA INDITEX
Inditex (Industria de Diseño Textil S.A.),
Edificio Inditex, Av. de la Diputación s/n, 15142 Arteixo.
A Coruña, Spain.
E-mail politicadatos@inditex.com
KARSTADTQUELLE AG
Corporate Headquarters
Theodor-Althoff-Str. 2
D-45133 Essen
Phone: +49 - 201 - 727 - 1
Fax: +49 - 201 - 727 - 5216
E-mail : info@karstadtquelle.de
Klaus Steilmann GmbH & Co. KG
Feldstraße 4
44867 Bochum
Tel. +49-(0)2327-940-0
E-mail: ute_steilmann@steilmann.com
Carrefour
Mr Roland Vaxelaire
Quality and Sustainable Development Director
6 avenue Raymond Poincaré
BP 2123
75771 Paris Cedex 16
Tél. +33 1 53 70 19 00
E-mail: roland_vaxelaire@carrefour.com
Date:
Re.: Support for victims of the Spectrum-Sharhriyar
disaster
Dear
I am writing to you to express my concern regarding
your company's lack of response to the plight of the victims and families
of the Spectrum-Shahriyar factory in Bangladesh. I have been informed
by the Clean Clothes Campaign that while 74 workers were killed, more
than a hundred injured (some severely) and more than 5000 workers lost
their jobs, your company, that was sourcing at this factory, has not
taken any steps to help these workers and their families. The CCC reported
that these workers and their families had lost their homes and could
not even provide for their most basic needs due to the loss of income.
To date your company has not made any public
commitment to help the workers who made your products. At this time
I call upon you to immediately respond to the demands below by taking
concrete measures to ensure that Spectrum-Shahriyar workers receive
timely assistance, that a transparent investigation of the causes of
the collapse is conducted and that structural measures are put in place
to prevent a tragedy like this from ever happening again. These demands
apply to all brands sourcing at this factory and are formulated as follows:
OUTSTANDING DEMANDS PER May 24th 2005
1. COMPENSATION
All brands sourcing at Shahriyar/Spectrum at
any given point of time in the past 4 years should ensure that appropriate
compensation is paid to all families of the dead workers (according
the the fatal accident act, up to one million taka) as well as to the
injured workers (at least the same amount if not higher, including expected
loss of income over future working life, damages and all costs of treatment).
A special medical board should established to take responsibility to
see that workers receive proper treatment , expenses for which should
be fully paid (not by the workers).
All outstanding wages and overtime payments should
be paid immediately, and the circa 5000 workers who lost their jobs
at Spectrum/Shahriyar should continue to receive wages, and be assisted
in finding alternative employment. If officially terminated they should
receive payment at least the maximum amount allowed by law in case of
factory closure.
A public statement of intent to this effect should
be made by each brand to immediately assure the workers, their families
and concerned consumers that action will be taken.
2. REGARDING THE INVESTIGATION
Support for high-powered investigation committee
with legal local standing should be established to find out the actual
number of dead, wounded, missing persons and bodies officially recovered,
and to specify which authority should follow up on those findings. The
brands officially request from the BGMEA and Bangladeshi authorities
that this happens. They should also request that the investigation reports
from BGMEA and Rajuk be made public.
Many of the European companies producing at Spectrum
Sweaters have codes of conduct including the right to a safe and healthy
workplace, and claim to regularly audit their suppliers to ensure that
these standards are met. These programs have been clearly insufficient
to prevent, detect, or remediate violations of construction rules and
labor laws, and this dramatic failure has cost these young women and
men their lives. Companies should publicly disclose their audit reports
of this facility. The BGMEA should publicly disclose reports on their
fire safety program at Spectrum Sweater.
The code implementation schemes of all brands
sourcing at Spectrum/Shahriyar (and the scheme of the BSCI itself) --
none of whom identified the safety risks to the workers, nor addressed
any of many other violations to almost every element of the code --
should all be reviewed.
3. REGARDING PREVENTATIVE MEASURES:
Call upon industry, along with public authorities
(at the local and international levels) must commit to launch an immediate
initiative to take on the safety issues that plague the garment industry
in Bangladesh, including a structural review of multi-story buildings
and facilities inspection mechanisms. Such an initiative should examine
occupational health and safety regulations and their implementation
(including emergency regulations).
In addition to addressing technical matters, workers' access to safe
channels by which they can communicate their concerns on issues such
as health and safety to their employers must also be addressed.
The brands should issue a statement indicating their support for a such
an initiative.
This call for immediate action on health and
safety issues comes in addition to ongoing demands that the right to
organize, the right to collective bargaining, the right to one day off
per week (Friday) and a 48 hour working week with no forced overtime,
the right the earn a living wage, and the right to security of employment
(appointment letter) and regular payment of salaries and benefits (health,
maternity) be respected throughout the sector. Brands, industry and
government should individually and collectively take credible steps
in this regard. Experience has demonstrated that the implementation
of basic labour rights is interconnected and for any attempt to make
sustainable progress on health and safety issues action has to be taken
on these other issues as well.
I hope that your appreciates the urgency of attending
to this matter and that there will be no further delays in taking concrete
measures to help the Spectrum-Shahriyar workers.
I look forward to hearing your response, including
the action you have taken in this matter.
Yours Sincerely,
The CCC calls upon trade unions, labour organisations,
human rights organisations and NGO's to identify companies sourcing
in Bangladesh and send this letter urging them to act on the demands
outlined therein.
3. Sample letter to other companies sourcing
in Bangladesh.
DATE:
To:
Re: Factory Collapse in Bangladesh April 11,
2005-05-11
We are writing to you and to a number of other
retailers and manufacturers sourcing apparel products from Bangladesh
to request your assistance to help ensure that garment workers in that
country have safe and healthy working conditions.
Most likely you are well aware of the terrible
tragedy that occurred in Savar Dhaka, Bangladesh at 1:00 a.m. on April
11, 2005, when the nine-story, illegal garment factory that housed Spectrum
Sweater Industries and Shahriyar Fabrics Industries collapsed, killing
74 workers, injuring at least 80 and leaving many others missing, trapped
under the debris. This catastrophic loss of life should, and could,
have been avoided had the employers, the government, and the retailers
sourcing from the factory acted responsibly and responded to warning
signs that there were serious problems in the factory.
The factory was built on a swamp and originally
had only four stories. However, to accommodate large orders that the
manufacturers did not want to refuse, five additional floors were added,
and subsequently filled with heavy machinery, despite the fact that
the building lacked an adequate foundation. Reports indicate that violations
of health and safety regulations were rife within the factory, and that
accidents were all too common.
Three days before the building collapsed a worker
died as a result of burns from the boiler. Another worker is still in
the hospital, three months after being electrocuted when her clothing
became entangled in wires. Just sixteen hours before the building crumbled,
workers' complaints that there were cracks in the structure's supporting
columns fell on deaf ears. Labour rights violations were also routine.
Workers, including 15-year-olds, were not even paid the minimum wage
and often worked seven days a week, through the night.
What is most disturbing about this disaster is
that it is by no means an anomaly in the Bangladeshi garment and textile
industry. For example, in recent years factory fires alone have claimed
hundreds of lives. Such events are a sobering indication that the drive
to be a competitive player in the global trade of garments and textiles
often leads to a complete disregard for adequate working conditions,
basic rights and safety regulations.
That is why we are writing to ask that you take
immediate and concerted action on these issues. Please note that we
are not requesting you to cease sourcing from Bangladesh, especially
given predictions that the elimination of quotas could lead to significant
job loss and socio-economic turmoil as the industry restructures. Closing
factories and/or terminating contracts with suppliers will not deal
with the root causes of these problems. Instead, we urge you to work
with your suppliers in Bangladesh, as well as industry associations
and the local authorities to ensure that safe and healthy working conditions
are the norm, so future tragedies can be prevented. However, if a supplier
is unwilling or unable to provide safe working conditions, ending the
business relationship may be the only option.
It appears that at the time of the tragedy many
European retailers, such as Zara, Karstadt Quelle of Germany, Carrefour
of France and Cotton Group of Belgium, were sourcing from Spectrum Sweater.
Unions and NGOs have taken the case up directly with them however, the
implications from this disaster are relevant to all companies sourcing
from the garment industry in Bangladesh. Despite the fact that this
factory was an appalling accident waiting to happen, it had passed factory
audits conducted to satisfy its customers' codes of conduct. None of
these retailers' monitoring programs managed to serve their intended
purpose by sounding alarm bells over any number of these breaches. Obviously,
current audit models are severely flawed and need to be subjected to
intense scrutiny by a variety of stakeholders.
With these facts in mind, the Clean Clothes Campaign
and others are calling upon all companies sourcing from Bangladesh to
do the following:
1. Urge the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers
and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers
and Exporters Association (BKMEA) to work with trade unions and NGOs
ensure that investigations into the cause of the buildings collapse
are transparent, include a full list of all dead, missing, injured and
survivors, and importantly that the injured workers and the families
of those who were killed are adequately compensated and workers left
unemployed receive adequate compensation and alternative employment.
1. Take immediate steps to ensure that any factory
your company sources from in Bangladesh is not at similar safety risk
and verify that:
- The owner has received all necessary building
permits, and the building is structurally sound and pay special attention
to factories around Dhaka city constructed in low-lying or marshy
areas (which would include most areas to the West, South and East).
- The plant and machinery are safe, emergency
exits are unlocked and unobstructed, and there is adequate access
and exit routes so that emergency equipment can be brought quickly
to the site;
- Workers receive adequate health and safety
training and have secure channels to raise concerns on health and
safety issues with management and the government.
2. Call upon local authorities and industry leaders
to launch an immediate review of structural and health and safety issues
that plague the garment industry in Bangladesh, including a structural
review of multi-story buildings and of current inspection programs and
practices. Such a review should include the participation of an independent
international oversight committee that is charged with examining structural
and occupational health and safety regulations and their implementation
(including emergency regulations). Such an oversight committee should
be composed of people with expertise in civil engineering, health and
safety, and international labour standards in the garment industry,
including the ILO. In addition to addressing technical matters, workers'
access to secure channels by which they can communicate their concerns
on issues such as health and safety to their employers and the government
must also be addressed. The committee should be given a multi-year assignment
in order to ensure that follow-up takes place on any recommendations
that are made as a result of the review process.
This call for immediate action on health and
safety issues comes in addition to ongoing demands that the right to
organize, the right to collective bargaining, the right to one day off
per week (Friday) and a 48 hour working week with no forced overtime,
the right the earn a living wage, and the right to security of employment
(appointment letter) and regular payment of salaries and benefits (health,
maternity) be respected throughout the sector. Brands, industry and
government should individually and collectively take credible steps
in this regard. Experience has demonstrated that the implementation
of basic labour rights is interconnected and for any attempt to make
sustainable progress on health and safety issues action has to be taken
on these other issues as well.
We look forward to receiving your response regarding
the actions your company will take to help ensure that workers in Bangladesh
supply factories enjoy safe and healthy working conditions.
Yours Sincerely,
Name:
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