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The Clean Clothes CampaignCampaigning for better working conditions in the global garment industry
What is the Clean Clothes Campaign?

A 1989 demonstration in front of a Dutch clothing store, protesting bad working conditions in the Philippines where the clothes were actually produced, grew into an ongoing campaign in the Netherlands, called the Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC). The campaign, focused on improving working conditions in the global garment and sportswear industries, is now active in 11 other European countries.

Each of the European CCCs is a coalition of NGOs and trade unions. They work autonomously at the national level, and come together to work jointly at the European level. This European campaign network is backed up by a broader, international network that includes trade unions, NGOs, and individuals in countries where garments are produced. This means Asia, Africa, Eastern Europe, and Central America. The CCC also cooperates with similar campaigns in the United States, Canada, and Australia.

Outside of Europe the CCC operates more as an informal network -- organizations or individuals do not become official members or pay dues -- but all those involved in the CCC network are committed to actively working in cooperation with other coalition members to improve conditions in the garment and sportswear industries. This means seeking to bring conditions up to the labor standards of the International Labor Organization (ILO), and to also lessen the environmental impact of garment production. Because a high percentage of workers in the garment industry are women, the CCC strives to incorporate a gender analysis into its strategizing and approach to campaigning. The CCC also recognizes that the current structure of the international garment industry is largely carried out in the informal sector and that significant use is made of migrant labor. These factors bring special challenges that the CCC seeks to address.

What does the CCC do?

The CCC has four broad categories of activity that ultimately aim to move us closer to our main goals -- improving working conditions in the industry and empowering workers.

These areas of activity are:

Raising awareness & mobilizing consumers

Multinational corporations (MNCs) spend millions of dollars each year on advertising and marketing campaigns to get consumers to buy the products they are selling. For them getting the attention of consumers is worth this huge amount of money. Brand name companies compete intensely for consumer loyalty, and therefore consumers can influence how these companies operate. The CCC is a consumer campaign, and harnesses the power of consumers to push for positive social change. We gather information and present it to consumers in a variety of ways (educational programs, demonstrations, ads, debates, books, rallies, internet) so that they know the truth about how clothes are produced (low wages, long hours, repression of trade union rights, sexual discrimination, etc.). Armed with this information we encourage consumers to pursue a variety of ways to take action to improve conditions. Generally, the CCCs in each European country will inform consumers about the practices of the specific brands that dominate the market in their country.

Pressuring companies to take responsibility

The campaign puts pressure on companies to take responsibility to ensure that their products are made in decent working conditions. We also pressure them to adopt ethical buying practices -- for example in relation to pricing and scheduling -- otherwise their suppliers will not be able to enforce requests to improve work place conditions. The CCC believes that companies at the top of the garment industry supply chain have to act upon this responsibility at all levels of their supply chains. Such supply chains, i.e. all workers involved in producing clothes for the international market, can span the globe and include workers wherever they are based -- from homeworkers, to those informally employed, and those working in factories. The CCC makes demands for structural improvements and also pressures companies to take action on individual instances of labor rights violations. This is through our urgent appeals system. With this system we receive, verify, disseminate, and follow up on specific requests for assistance in cases of labor rights violations. The demands that we publicize and pursue are those made by the workers themselves -- they take the risks (in terms of safety and loss of jobs) therefore the CCC believes that they should set the strategy and make the decisions about if and how their case is presented to the brand name companies involved, the public, and the media.

Solidarity actions

The urgent appeals system is also an example of the solidarity work that the CCC does to support workers, trade unions, and NGOs. We also organize research and exchange programs and international seminars that help create spaces where international strategies to improve working conditions can be debated and developed. Both the solidarity work and the CCC's work with consumers are supported by our function as a clearinghouse for relevant information.

Lobbying and legal action

Most recently the campaign is exploring legal possibilities for improving working conditions (that includes for example investigating the possibilities for lawsuits against companies in their home countries for violations of labor rights in other countries) and lobbying for legislation that would promote good working conditions. The CCC believes that government has an important role in ensuring that good labor standards are enforced (in many countries where garments are produced there is good legislation, but enforcement is lax). The CCC does not promote a link between trade agreements and labor standards (ex. inclusion of social clauses in such agreements). The campaign is actively lobbying for laws that would compel governments to become ethical consumers. Governments -- at the local and national levels -- spend millions on uniforms, for example, and the CCC believes that these should all be produced in workplaces that respect workers rights. The CCC recognizes that states are under pressure (for example from the World Bank and IMF) to create an atmosphere (tax breaks, repression of union rights, low wages) that is attractive to foreign investors, but that does not mean they should ignore their responsibilities to their people.

The CCC and Codes of Conduct

Codes of conduct are lists of labor standards. Today, many companies have written up their own codes and they claim that these standards are enforced in the workplaces where their garments are made. This is generally not true. Nevertheless, the CCC uses these "company codes" to try to pressure companies to improve conditions for their workers. We believe that if companies are breaking their own rules and the workers want to make an issue of it, then attention should be drawn to this. In this way, the CCC has used codes of conduct as a campaigning tool, both in relation to specific cases of rights violations and in our general awareness-raising efforts. For example, we inform consumers what a big brand name company says in their code (minimum wages, safe workplace) and then what the reality is (wages below minimum, locked fire exits). We also inform workers who are trying to organize in their factories what the promises are that the brand name companies are actually making to the public in countries where the clothes are sold. But a code can easily be just a piece of paper that makes companies look good -- lots of beautiful promises -- unless workers know about them and they are actually enforced. The best codes are good labor laws that are enforced, but given the lack of political will in most garment producing countries, other tools have to be pursued in the meantime, to create a space to allow for worker organizing.

The CCC pushes companies to have codes that are made up of ILO standards. In this way, the promises made are not vague, but are written out in clear language that has been discussed internationally. The CCC also pressures companies to have a code that requires full implementation of the standards listed, and requirements for regularly monitoring code compliance. The CCC also believe that claims about code compliance must be independently verified. The CCC has developed a model code as a guideline and is currently involved in several projects to get a better understanding of what would actually constitute a good monitoring and verification system. More information on these initiatives and what has been learned so far is available via the Internet at <www.somo.nl/monitoring> or from the CCC International Secretariat. A CCC priority is to push for worker involvement in code development and systems for code compliance. Though codes are voluntary initiatives, if they call for the implementation of good standards and create inclusive methods to allow for worker empowerment (ex. systems for workers to file complaints or get training) then we think this tool should be used.

CCC Resources Available to the Public

The CCC produces and/or distributes a wide variety of materials in a variety of languages. These resources have different goals -- for example some are geared specifically toward raising awareness among children, sports fans, or workers. CCC materials include:

  • research reports on working conditions

  • profiles of "brand name" companies (including information on their codes of conduct)

  • campaigning materials (leaflets and posters), including materials to use in lobbying government (also at the local level) to adopt policies that support the enforcement of labor standards and ethical purchasing

  • video documentaries about working conditions and campaigns

  • information on codes of conduct and monitoring and verification processes

  • educational materials for classroom use

  • an e-mail news list available via subscription for regular updates on campaigns and other developments

  • a semi-annual newsletter, in English, available free via subscription

The CCC International Secretariat maintains a website (in English) where many of these materials are posted. We encourage those who are interested in learning more about the CCC or working conditions in the garment industry to take a look at our website <www.cleanclothes.org>. Contact the secretariat (e-mail: info@cleanclothes.org) to order any materials.

How to become involved in the CCC network

Participants in the CCC network include trade unions, human rights organizations, consumer organizations, researchers, academics, solidarity organizations, youth groups, women's organizations, homeworkers' organizations, migrant worker organizations and many others. Interested individuals or organizations are encouraged to become involved in the CCC. There are a variety of possibilities.
Contact the CCC to:

  • share information you have about working conditions in the garment industry
  • get more information about a company
  • request assistance in a campaign to draw attention to rights violations
  • volunteer to give workshops on these issues or organize campaigns in your community
  • become a protest letter writer and support workers in their struggle to have their rights respected
  • make a one-time donation or become a supporting member of the campaign
  • ask any questions you might have about the CCC

Please contact the CCC International Secretariat to discuss where you or your organization might fit in.

Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) International Secretariat
P.O Box 11584
1001 GN Amsterdam
the Netherlands
Telephone: +31-20-412-2785
Fax: +31-20-412-2786
E-mail: info@cleanclothes.org
http://www.cleanclothes.org

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