March 20,
2007 Sportswear
workers in the Dominican Republic need your support
Dear
friends, On February 22, the BJ&B garment factory
in the Dominican Republic suddenly announced it
was laying off all workers and closing. For the
majority of the workers the day of the announcement
was their last working day, though formally the
factory remains open until May 22, 2007. At the
time of the announced closure BJ&B was producing
caps for Nike. Previously the plant also produced
for Reebok (now adidas).
The factory is owned by a Korean group called
Yupoong, one of the biggest caps manufacturers
worldwide. BJ&B workers have a union and as
a result it is one of the few factories that could
be deemed to be in compliance with codes of conduct.
However, Yupoong has diverted orders from BJ&B
to its other plants as part of a planned strategy
to move away from this one unionised facility
to the advantage of the other non-unionised factories
owned by the group. The CCC believes that BJ&B's
parent company and clients have a role to play
in keeping this factory open. Please take action
to support BJ&B workers, who engaged in a
long struggle to get their union and improve working
conditions.
May 2007 - UPDATE! Workers
Successfully Negotiate Settlement at BJ&B
BACKGROUND: LONG ROAD TO COMPLIANCE
ENDS IN
CLOSURE?
For years, workers at BJ&B endured a range
of worker rights violations, including chronic
forced overtime, verbal harassment of workers
by supervisors, and repeated efforts to coerce
and intimidate workers who sought to unionize.
In late 2002, when all 20 members of a recently
formed union committee were fired, the workers
filed a complaint with the US based Worker Rights
Consortium and sought the support of the international
labor rights community. An international campaign,
in which the Clean Clothes Campaign participated,
led to the union committee members' reinstatement.
The workers went on in January 2004 to negotiate
a groundbreaking collective bargaining agreement,
which provided for a wage increase of 10% (unprecedented
in the Dominican apparel export sector)- and educational
scholarships for workers and family members, among
other benefits. These efforts also led to general
improvements in working conditions and the elimination
of most code of conduct violations.
However, the advances achieved through the workers'
efforts and support from the international community
proved short-lived. Soon after the major breakthroughs
occurred at BJ&B, the company's parent company,
Yupoong, began a process of disinvestment from
the company, selling off key machinery and conducting
mass lay-offs, while the company's major buyer's
- Nike and Reebok (now owned by adidas) - began
shifting production to Yupoong's other production
sites in Asia. When the workers began organizing
in 2001, the factory had more than 2,000 employees
and was one of the largest cap manufactures in
the Western Hemisphere. By early 2005, the workforce
had been reduced to only 350 workers.
CCC believes Nike, as the remaining BJ&B
buyer, and adidas, as the most important Yupoong
buyer (and former BJ&B buyer) should do everything
in their power to work with Yupoong management
and the union to keep the factory open.
Our understanding is that the current Nike orders
will be diverted to facilities in Vietnam and
possibly Bangladesh, while the Reebok (now adidas)
orders were shifted from BJ&B to other Yupoong
facilities already in 2004. We further understand
that adidas is the biggest buyer at the Vietnam
plant, and a major buyer at the Bangladesh plant.
As mentioned above, Yupoong is diverting orders
from its one unionised factory to the other, non-unionised
facilities in their group. It is part of this
strategy to not make the necessary technological
investments to keep the BJ&B plant 'competitive'.
Recent signals from the union to the buyer's on
this matter have reportedly been ignored.
NIKE AND ADIDAS VALUE CHEAP
LABOR OVER COMPLIANCE
The union contacted both Nike and adidas by letter
on February 23 and on March 9. Soo far neither
company has responded to them directly. Both buyer's
have been in touch with various other stakeholders
on the case. One of the key arguments put forward
by the buyer's, particularly Nike, as to why BJ&B
will have to close, has been that it is 'impossible
for the factory to remain competitive'.
The CCC is not surprised that Yupoong is offering
a better price for caps made in Vietnam or Bangladesh,
then for caps made at one of the few decent factories
in the Dominican Republic. We are dismayed though
that Nike and adidas, who publicly claim to believe
in "responsible competitiveness", seem
to be content to move production purely because
it is cheaper elsewhere. There seems to have been
no collaborative process, involving brands, the
union and Yupoong, to investigate alternatives
to closure. No thorough expert analysis has been
conducted to assess whether this closure is really
necessary and what the alternatives would be.
As indicated above, the union believes Yupoong
purposely failed to make the necessary investment
to keep BJ&B open.
It also seems as if calculations so far have
been limited to BJ&B's direct costs compared
to other suppliers, without factoring in indirect
and more long term costs related to compliance,
and without considering all the cost factors that
we know play a role in bringing a product to the
market. The CCC can only interpret this to mean
that Nike and adidas are not serious about implementing
sourcing practices that support their pledges
for "responsible competitiveness". Making
good on such statements means looking beyond the
"cheap" labour costs on offer and assessing
the value-added that comes with a workplace in
compliance with decent labour standards, including
freedom of association. Nike and adidas erode
their credibility with stakeholders and consumers
by failing to consider the total costs throughout
their supply chains when making such short-sighted
sourcing decisions.
Action request
May 2007 - UPDATE! Workers
Successfully Negotiate Settlement at BJ&B
Please take a moment to
tell Nike, adidas and Yupoong management that
you believe they should do everything in their
power to keep the factory open, and work directly
with the union to achieve this.
Fukumi Hauser
Director of Americas Compliance Nike, Inc.
Fukumi.hauser@nike.com
Frank Henke
Director Social and Environmental Affairs
Adidas
frank.henke@adidas.de
Dear Fukumi Hauser &
Frank Henke,
I am contacting you today
regarding the recently announced closure of the
BJ&B factory in the Dominican Republic. I'm
very concerned about this, for a number of reasons.
BJ&B is a unionised
factory, and one of the few that could be deemed
to be in compliance with codes of conduct, following
a long struggle in 2002/2003. I understand that
the union believes that the Korean owner, Yupoong,
has diverted orders from BJ&B to its other
plants as part of a planned strategy to move away
from this one unionised facility in their group
to the advantage of the other ones.
While I'm not surprised
that Yupoong today offers a better price for the
same product when produced in Vietnam or Bangladesh
then in the Dominican Republic, I am dismayed
that your company, which publicly claims to believe
in "responsible competitiveness", seems
to be content to move production purely because
it is cheaper elsewhere. Has a thorough expert
analysis been conducted to assess whether this
closure is really necessary, what the alternatives
would be, and have the outcomes been discussed
with the union?
It also seems as if calculations
so far have been limited to BJ&Bs direct costs
compared to other suppliers, without factoring
in indirect and more long term costs related to
compliance, and without considering all the cost
factors that we know play a role in brining a
product to the market. I can only interpret that
to mean that your company is not serious about
implementing sourcing practices that support your
pledges for "responsible competitiveness".
Making good on such statements means looking beyond
the "cheap" labour costs on offer and
assessing the value-added that comes with a workplace
in compliance with decent labour standards, including
freedom of association.
BJ&B offers employment
to workers in an area where alternative employment
is hard if not impossible to find. The negative
impact on the workers and their community will
be devastating. How does this fit with your stated
objectives of create sustainable business practices
which ultimately will benefit both workers and
their communities?
I urgently call upon you
to do everything in you power to work with Yupoong
management and the union to keep the BJ&B
factory open.
Sincerely,
Oct 2007 - UPDATE! Workers
Successfully Negotiate Settlement at BJ&B
2.
You can use this form to mail the following letter
directly to:
Hyun-Suk Han
Legal Counsel, Yupoong Corporation
Yupoong Head Office
416-1, Guro-dong, Guro-gu,
Seoul, Korea
Fax: +82 2 838 2998
info@flexfit.com Dear
Hyun-Suk Han
I am contacting you today
regarding the recently announced closure of the
BJ&B factory in the Dominican Republic. I'm
very concerned about this, for a number of reasons.
BJ&B is a unionised
factory, and one of the few that could be deemed
to be in compliance with codes of conduct and
international labour standards. I understand that
the union believes that over the past years you've
diverted orders from BJ&B to its other plants
as part of a planned strategy to move away from
this one unionised facility in your group.
There seems to have been
no collaborative process, involving Yupoong's
international management as well as BJ&B local
management, the union and the buyer's concerned
to investigate alternatives to closure. Has a
thorough expert analysis been conducted to assess
whether this closure is really necessary, what
the alternatives would be, and have the outcomes
been discussed with the union?
BJ&B offers employment
to workers in an area where alternative employment
is hard if not impossible to find. The negative
impact on the workers and their community will
be devastating.
I urgently call upon you
to do everything in you power to work with the
union and your key buyers to keep the BJ&B
factory open. For your information, I will also
be contacting your clients on this important matter.
Sincerely,
Yenny
PerezYenny PerezBackground
Yenny began working at BJ&B when she
was 25. During her six years in the plant, she
has operated various of the plant's machines and
now specializes on a machine that applies the
hat's internal labels. Now 31, she has 4 children:
three boys, Benny, Ludiver, and Edwin, and one
girl, Cristal, ranging in age from 9 to 16 years
old. Separated from the children's father, Yenny
is raising the kids by herself. She is presently
pregnant with a fifth child, expecting in about
three months. Yenny's job at BJ&B provides
the family's only income. She earns a base wage
of 4127 pesos ($125.00) a month, or about $0.65
an hour. On some months, she can supplement this
income through overtime
Yenny's biggest expenses
include:
- Food for the family (stables such as rice,
beats, and meat): $84.00/month
- Electricity: $7.00 /month
- Drinking water: $3.00 pesos/month
- Transportation for children's bus ride to
school: $18.00/month
- School uniforms: $15.00/month ($182 per year,
averaged over 12 months).
In Her Own Words
I am so worried about what I will do if this
factory closes. It will be so hard to find a job.
As a pregnant woman, I know I will not be able
to find work. On top of that, I am a known trade
unionist. They don't hire trade unionists here.
My job is critical for my children, to take care
of them. The thought of this factory closing makes
me feel so uncomfortable. I don't know what I
will do. I'll have to try to survive as God allows
through whatever means.
The factory is so important to our community,
because there are not other places to find work,
especially for the women. There is a box factory
and also an oil factory, but they hire only men,
and anyway, they do not have many jobs.
I think the closure has been planned for a long
time. I believe they are doing this because of
the union, to get rid of the union. I know that
they had work. There was plenty of work we could
have done. Before they closed, no one knew anything
because they didn't tell us anything. There were
just rumors that they would abandon the factory.
Then they just announced it [the closure] all
of a sudden.
Why did I get involved in the union? Because
we were so mistreated. We were abused verbally.
They would yell and scream at us. We worked sometimes
from 7 in the morning until 11 at night. And it
was obligatory, always, the extra hours. When
people fell sick, they didn't let them leave the
factory to go to the doctor. No one had any way
to defend themselves.
Many things have changed with the union. The
verbal mistreatment stopped. The extra hours changed,
so that it was voluntary. There were also many
benefits we gained with the collective bargaining
agreement. For example, we got a market basket
for pregnant workers. We got paid leave. We fixed
many problems that came up with management, [conflicts
about workers who were fired illegally or people
who were ill and needed medical attention.]
My position is Secretaria de Actas and I am a
member of the leadership committee. My responsibility
is to record the decisions we make, and also to
work on cases to defend workers in the factory
when there are problems.
I don't know how to explain how important the
union is. When you are by yourself, the boss can
tell you to do anything. Many of the employers
don't comply with the law. But together in the
union, we can make sure that the company complies
with the law.
What will I do now? If the company closes, I
will have to do anything to make sure the kids
can go to school. How will I do it? I don't know.
I just really don't know. Try to sell something,
I guess. But to be honest, I really don't know.
I am scared.
There are many pregnant workers who are in the
same position as me. I know three others very
well who will lose their job if the factory closes.
They have a few more months to give birth than
me. I know it will be just as hard for them to
find other jobs and some kind of income as me.
If I could say something to Nike and Reebok,
I would say please, we really need BJ&B here.
Please do not abandon us.
Sebastian
Garcia Sebastian
GarciaBackground
Sebastian is 56 years old. He has worked at BJ&B
for 16 years. He is trained at operating many
of the plants' production machines and helps instruct
other workers. Sebastian has been married more
than thirty years and has eight living children,
all of them girls or women: Mary (27), Sensia
Garcia (20), Lila (19), Fidelina (11), Nena (8),
Ramona (7), Maritza (6), and Paula (6). In
His Own Words
Finding a new job if BJ&B closes will not
be easy. I am an old man now. Who will want to
hire an old man like me? That is what I am worried
about.
The family needs an income. For the food especially,
and to make sure the kids are able to go to school,
to study. If I was younger, I could move away
to try to find a job. But I have a family, so
I can't do that. Of course, I will look for work.
But not only am I of an advanced age, I am also
a known trade unionist. The times coming would
be very hard. I am worried the children could
go hungry.
We have discussed this in the family. I said
that soon I may not be working. One of the kids
says that they could leave school and start working.
But I am afraid even she could not get hired because
I am known to be a trade unionist. One of my son's
in law worked at BJ&B for six years, and they
fired him because of my involvement in the union.
They fired me too, but I was able to get my job
back.
Why did I join the union? There were so many
abuses in the factory. The supervisors screamed
at us and mistreated us. They forced you to do
work extra hours, even when you were sick. That
happened to me. One day, I was so sick in the
stomach. I could not eat. And I went to the bathroom
and I was losing blood from both ends. I told
my supervisor I need to go to the hospital. He
said you must stay and work. Then he said you
can go home if you want but then don't come back,
because you will be fired. So I went to the hospital
anyway and I was there in recuperation for nine
days. They finally let me come back to work.
In fact, this happened several times, about 5
times. One time at the factory, I was trying to
lift a heavy box and I cut a ventricle nerve.
At night, I could not eat. And the next day I
went to work and I was so ill. I was losing blood
again. I told my boss I need to go to the hospital.
He did not want me to go. I finally went to a
hospital in the Capital, and they kept me one
month. But the company refused to pay my disability
leave. Also, I lost so much blood that I needed
to have an infusion of new blood. It was very
expensive. And the company refused to give the
paperwork that I needed for the hospital go cover
it under the social security system. They told
me it was too expensive. This happened 7 years
ago.
At this time, some people were talking about
organizing a union. I told my story and they asked
me to be a member of the leadership committee
to organize the union. I said yes. Since that
day, I have always participated in the union.
In fact, I never missed a meeting. During the
time that the union was formed, I was fired, along
with other people who were involved. But after
the international pressure, we got our jobs back
and continued.
Everything changed with the union. Before, whenever
a worker made any kind of error, the supervisor
would shake you and scream. This stopped. There
had been extra hours which were forced and sometimes
not paid. After the union, the worker did not
do overtime if he didn't agree to, and the company
didn't demand it. We also got various changes
through the collective agreement. They increased
how much they will pay for overtime. There was
a benefit for food. There were many benefits.
If a worker was injured and needed medical attention,
the company paid for much of it. There are many
things we achieved in the agreement, which I can't
remember all of them right now.
If the factory closes, the workers will not be
able to find work, because this is really the
only big employer. The people with children really
need the work. People need to pay for their homes
if they don't own them. Without work, they could
lose their homes. If a mother has children who
are sick, they won't be able to get medical care
from "social security" because you have
to be employed to get that.
In my case, we have so many expenses - the electricity
for the light, the telephone, food, paying for
the school for all of the children. I don't know
how we could pay for them. So I am praying that
BJ&B stays open.
The problem is that there are no other factories
that are hiring here. Especially, there are no
other places that will hire women.
I want to say to the brand, like Nike that they
should do everything that they can to keep this
factory open. In this moment, we the people of
this community, we need this factory here. We
should not be blamed, and we should not be punished
by loss of our job, because we tried to organize
a union to protect ourselves.
We have made these products, which we know are
of the highest quality, no matter what any one
says, for many many years. We put our care into
making these hats. The brands and Yupoong, they
owe it to our community to stay here.